tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82090801314944797702024-03-18T03:03:34.934+00:00Grosgrain GreenHelenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.comBlogger218125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-56748819018565099282019-07-27T13:21:00.002+01:002019-07-27T13:21:53.812+01:00#slowfashionseasonI've been trying to learn a bit more about sustainability recently, particularly in the fashion industry (or, lack thereof). I have lots of thoughts and feelings about this and although I am probably not the most well-informed person, I wanted to write something about this. Please do not shoot me down if I have missed anything or get anything wrong. I'm still learning, and trying to take in as much as possible.<br />
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There are 2 distinct and separate parts to this, which isn't always clear. Firstly the environmental damage - fabric production to garment manufacture to shipping, to fast fashion and the simple fact that the average garment is now only worn 4 times before it is discarded (to landfill, naturally). Some fabrics are biodegradable, but cause deforestation and excessive water usage to produce, or use damaging chemicals in the manufacturing process, and ultimately nothing biodegrades in landfill anyway because there is no oxygen, light or water, 3 of the factors required for the process to take place. And other stuff is just made of plastic that will be hanging around for the next 1000 years or so.</div>
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The second part is around an ethical workforce. This means having full transparency of where every single garment is produced, and the conditions are fair. That means paying a living wage, not using forced overtime, or child labour. It means permitting the unionisation of employees so they can ask for better conditions without being beaten up and/or sacked. When I talk to non-sewing friends and family this is the part they are least acquainted with, or maybe it's the bit they like least to think about. Who wants to think about a 5 year old making their latest £10 polyester dress?</div>
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And what seems craziest to me is that this is for fashion! It's not food, or water or roofs over our heads. It's not actually that important. Now, I love fashion and I don't mean to trivialise it's importance as a form of self expression, sense of belonging or art, but £2 t-shirts are none of those things. They are quite simply an item that the majority of people don't need. I am well aware that those on the poverty line have no choice but to buy cheaper items, but then again, I assume they are not wearing things once or twice before throwing them away.</div>
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It's such a complex argument. The planet has enough clothes for everyone already, but if we all stopped buying, this would further adversely affect those who live in traditional garment manufacturing countries, as this is now their predominant industry. And yet we can't continue as those countries are generally the worst impacted by climate change, and the individuals making our clothes are still stuck in a forced overtime/no union/underpaid/no health and safety loop. </div>
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To that end, I have signed up for #slowfashionseason. Currently around 14,000 people across the world have signed up to not buy any new clothes, shoes or accessories for 3 months. I don't buy many new clothes these days anyway, but I do probably make more than I really need. I'm currently panic sewing 3 new items to take on holiday next week, so case in point. I haven't committed to a fabric buying ban, and I haven't committed to not sew (that way madness lies), but I have committed to only make considered items that I actually need and will wear again and again. Again, I'm not too bad at doing this, but I do still get distracted by the latest shiny pattern or fabric. If I do buy fabric, I will ensure it's as environmentally friendly as possible, so preferably tencel, cupro or organic cotton. I'm leaving this loophole in, as I'm finishing my job at the end of July and am looking for another one. If I am unemployed for a while, my wardrobe requirements will be different, and if I get another job, again, I might need something different to wear (unlikely, but possible). </div>
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I want to document my experience, and share any learnings or outcomes along the way. I'm not a natural activist (far too non-confrontational), so I figure sharing my experience might be educational for some. I still don't really know what I want that to look like but in the meantime am sharing occasional outfit posts, highlighting how long I've had items, and how often they have been worn. This is a guesstimate, but I'm aiming for at least 30 wears for everything eventually, and it's already got me thinking about some lesser worn items in my wardrobe. I suppose it's a bit like Me Made May but for RTW as well as handmade garments. </div>
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The items I'm making for holiday have been carefully considered and have life beyond the holiday. I also ensured they will go with many other garments in my wardrobe, so while I'm panic sewing, I'm still doing it mindfully. This is the approach I want to take going forward, whether items are bought or handmade. I'm not quite at the capsule wardrobe stage, but for a holiday with limited luggage allowance, it makes sense.<br />
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What are your thoughts regarding the sustainability of your buying and sewing/knitting/making habits? </div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-15781074907614479972019-03-25T20:42:00.000+00:002019-03-25T20:42:11.407+00:00Completed: Bowline SweaterTrue fact: when <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/products/bowline-sweater">Papercut </a>first released this pattern, I thought it was only worth making in a stripe. Couldn't see why anyone would want to make this in a solid. I was actually dismissive of the idea. Thought it was ridiculous. Why would someone chose to make this in a solid? Wasn't the whole point to make a statement of the stripe direction? Hmmm.<br />
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I have been wanting to make this since the pattern came out, but it was never high up in the queue for some reason. I finally bought the pattern last year during a sale, although still with no firm plans for actually sewing it. </div>
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This winter I've been trying to inject some colour into my wardrobe. The past few years have all been about sewing and buying all the shades of black and grey come winter. I haven't questioned it, and gone with the flow, until this winter when I didn't want that any more. Its not that I don't like my older winter wear, or that I don't want to wear it. I just don't want to wear black or grey every day. So although I don't need any new winter clothes, I've tried to be a bit more colourful in what I've made, Olya notwithstanding (it gets a pass because it was from the stash). Our office gets pretty warm and meeting rooms are like furnaces at any time of year (particularly fun in summer), so I thought a Bowline would fit the bill for long sleeve but not heavy weight top, in a colour. A solid colour. Because, Olya notwithstanding again, that's my current jam. </div>
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The fabric is <a href="https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/shop/fabric/terracota-loopback-jersey-fabric">modal loopback</a> from Guthrie and Ghani. It's not cheap, but it's lovely, and definitely worth it. It has photographed brighter than it is in real life. It's really more of a burnt orange or terracotta as Lauren describes it. It's very lightweight, pretty much a t-shirt weight which was what I was after. Its maybe slightly too drapey for the pattern as it doesn't want to hold the top of the pleat in shape properly, but I actually don't care. To go back to G&G, I haven't bought much from them, but I am super impressed with their customer care. They do offer swatches on their website, although they are hard to find. When I emailed to ask, I got a very quick response with the link. When I ordered the samples, I got them on a card with the fabric name and price and corresponding Gutterman thread colour. Isn't that genius? So, so helpful. When the fabric eventually came (ordered Thursday afternoon, arrived Friday morning), it came with a little handwritten note too. </div>
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My plan had been to make this a t-shirt, as opposed to sweatshirt by omitting the sleeve and hem bands, which I thought might also make it look a bit more work appropriate, but I screwed that up by forgetting to add length to the front bodice, and not having enough fabric to cut another. I did try to just hem it at the length it was, but it didn't look right (<a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.com/2019/03/completed-kabuki-tee.html">proportions</a>, remember?), so although I had hemmed it at that length, I unpicked it and added the band. I didn't bother adding the sleeve bands and I think it looks fine without. </div>
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Construction-wise this is an interesting sew. That pleat and dart is really cool and it's very cleverly put together. It's one of those patterns that I bought because I wanted to see how it worked. I am really intrigued by more interesting pattern drafting at the moment, partly for the fun of sewing it, and partly to learn about pattern drafting. I spend too much time trying to visualise how some RTW clothes are put together. I cannot fathom how they figured out how to put this together, but it works. There is a sewalong with photos which helps a bit too. In possibly a record for me, I finished this in a day - including printing and sticking together the PDF. I've never done that. Well, in honestly, I finished it that day, but then went back and fixed the bottom another day because it took a day or 2 to figure out why I didn't like it and how I could save it. But I <i>could have</i> made it in a day had I made it as drafted. </div>
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This is only the second Papercut pattern I've made, the first being the <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.com/2017/07/handmade-holiday-part-2.html">Sway dress</a>. My preference is definitely for PDFs with Papercut as I find their brown paper difficult to trace off, and I don't like the instruction layout on the printed pattern. I know a lot of people wax lyrical over the packaging, but it's not my preference.</div>
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I had also planned to sew this entirely on my overlocker but chickened out, and ended up sewing it with a lightening bolt stitch then overlocking the raw edges, because I'd already made the effort to change the thread. My main issue is that I'm struggling to maintain a consistent SA when using the overlocker, so a bit more practise is required, I think, particularly since this pattern is drafted with a 1cm SA. It might be easier with a narrower SA. Maybe.</div>
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Anyway, I am delighted with the final tee. It's a great colour and it's a great design. It works with a t-shirt or cami underneath, if I need a bit more warmth - in these photos it was layered over a black Lark tee. I wore it 3 days out of 5 when I first finished it, which is definitely a sign of success! It's a pretty distinctive shape, so I don't see me making millions more, but I probably still am hankering after a striped version at some point...</div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-83916165181850621502019-03-17T20:16:00.000+00:002019-03-17T20:16:55.913+00:00Completed: Kabuki TeeThis is the latest installment in my current series known as "Helen Makes Paper Theory Patterns in Insanely Difficult Fabrics".<br />
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I've fancied the <a href="https://www.papertheory.com/kabuki-tee">Kabuki</a> tee since it was released, but it somehow never managed to get prioritised. Probably because I needed to buy both pattern and fabric, and I've been trying to not do that, in order to use stuff up. However, my very kind Mother in Law gave me a Merchant and Mills voucher for my birthday, which I had earmarked for denim, but then <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cajcupcake/?hl=en">Carol </a>very kindly sent me a sample of the Woolsey she had ordered, and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/judithrosalind/?hl=en">Judith </a>did a bit of enabling too, and I ended up going for the <a href="https://merchantandmills.com/store/cloth/woolsey-alta-mare/">Woolsey in the Alta Mare</a> colour.<br />
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This is a tricky fabric. It's a linen/wool mix and is like a double gauze in that it has 2 layers. It's pretty shifty, likes to fray and has a loose weave. It was challenging to sew. Pieces seemed to grow and stretch as they were handled, notches literally disappeared in the weave of the fabric and unpicking was extremely not fun.<br />
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The pattern is pretty cool. I love the right angles and the wide sleeves. I think you can tell it's Paper Theory's first pattern, as it's maybe not quite as polished as the others. The drafting is predictably great but there are quite a few spelling mistakes and the instructions are less thorough. Having said that, there's a video tutorial of how to sew the right angles (it's the same process as for the Olya), so it's a good overall experience. Top Tip, which I don't remember seeing on the Olya tutorial, if your fabric is prone to fraying (me! me!), put a small L shaped bit of interfacing just right at the right angle. Wish I'd known/thought to do that on the Olya.<br />
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It's a pretty easy and quick make once you get your head round the angles, and there are 4 for good measure. With the notches disappearing, I managed to sew my first sleeve on the back to front, which was frustrating since the fabric was so hard to unpick, but also because you snip into the right angle as you sew it, which is hard to do twice. I ended up trying to mend the snip with even more interfacing, which didn't really work. I think it's OK though. As you can see above, I stay-stitched all the edges. It doesn't say to do this in the instructions but I think it's worth doing.<br />
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I'm not 100% sure I liked the method of attaching the bias binding at the neck, although it was easier. You sew one shoulder seam, then apply the binding before sewing the second shoulder seam. It is far less faffy, but you end up with a bulky seam at one shoulder, which in this fabric is pretty bulky and wants to poke out at the neck (see below).<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkMxNNjfudRj05GiPIhDo42JySQ7EcxMKTfmJYMbIa8yRC-4FYAvMXhkoHIJyEAkFZ18SwwLkXrKyPGieeEDu0-M2IdcqIml_RRQb7fY1b-xi8Tmzry5MlkII1LR2_9XAS0CjxUfKSwKb/s1600/EF014F5C-64C8-409E-8167-D3A614635A5E.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkMxNNjfudRj05GiPIhDo42JySQ7EcxMKTfmJYMbIa8yRC-4FYAvMXhkoHIJyEAkFZ18SwwLkXrKyPGieeEDu0-M2IdcqIml_RRQb7fY1b-xi8Tmzry5MlkII1LR2_9XAS0CjxUfKSwKb/s1600/EF014F5C-64C8-409E-8167-D3A614635A5E.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9WpB2fM9PTJHgwca9qUVcXTU1IpsYrYlqLmxtPPqsjeBVwf3eQY8LkiRu7R21smeAdqZVpNk6FS0NzoOKGJWvyow9tk2Ua_6eMjWqqVm7GO6Vm3QgO5B5FgA9GKMGxvbQ9mTLEYjQ__m2/s1600/A9EAC827-C30E-45F7-9895-42EE221E9F46.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9WpB2fM9PTJHgwca9qUVcXTU1IpsYrYlqLmxtPPqsjeBVwf3eQY8LkiRu7R21smeAdqZVpNk6FS0NzoOKGJWvyow9tk2Ua_6eMjWqqVm7GO6Vm3QgO5B5FgA9GKMGxvbQ9mTLEYjQ__m2/s1600/A9EAC827-C30E-45F7-9895-42EE221E9F46.JPG" /></a><br />
As the fabric is bulky, I didn't double turn the hems, instead I overlocked the raw edge and turned once. I actually ended up doing a double row of stitching on the hem because the first line didn't quite catch it all the way round on the bottom, then thought I'd better do the same on the sleeves. I like it although no one else can actually see it. This is definitely one of those fabrics where the stitches sink right in! Other than that, the only alterations I made were to add length to the sleeves. I'm afraid I ca'nt remember how much because I added more, then chopped some of it back off again. I left the sleeves the full width, rather than tapering them at all.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10IqhkTcYbad5OHx7YYHKPZNdhVgoVba9L3GIzV4B4bstvnCh_qWxiGJ5ceWzrHbANZZNAoBHfs9JFluuBqMTC7CNsrzVUu22RNCJ1teHh0IYcFJwR1I-uBGumIRyL7hxTcL_qcXz9U0l/s1600/P3170121.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10IqhkTcYbad5OHx7YYHKPZNdhVgoVba9L3GIzV4B4bstvnCh_qWxiGJ5ceWzrHbANZZNAoBHfs9JFluuBqMTC7CNsrzVUu22RNCJ1teHh0IYcFJwR1I-uBGumIRyL7hxTcL_qcXz9U0l/s1600/P3170121.JPG" /></a><br />
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Insides-wise, it's all overlocked. Oh, wait! I have a new Overlocker! I had a bit of a payout on our work sharesaves at the end of last year and so I treated myself. What a difference! I previously had the old Lidl Singer one, which wasn't great. This one is like a dream. It purrs, rather than shakes the house down, the tension is spot on, it's easier to thread and works pretty much straight away when I do. I haven't had a lot of opportunity to use it, as I was making stuff that didn't require it, so it's been nice to use it on both this and the Olya.<br />
<br />
When I first tried it on, post hemming and with the longer sleeves, I was completely unconvinced and thought I'd potentially wasted some pretty expensive fabric. But with the hem done and the sleeves shortened slightly the proportions started to look right. It's funny how proportions change something from awful to excellent, isn't it? I still think it's a bit too oversized on me, as it slightly shifts around when I wear it, but this is the smallest size, the 8. The hem is a bit dodgy (you can see it in the photo above when I'm side on). It seems to hang down at the sides, but when measured flat, it's even all the way round, so I'm just going with it. It's possibly the heavy and drapey fabric.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjI6TxiYTimFbq1WYg5kEPV6co_oWl2RVyBw2XNQfVUvZCkLU1VxM41hiXyRjp27WhIicltkzwv9MPkRAg8DqhoOn7vguJ1gABgkfUGhZ7f_OTM2rI7eHhNeoKZHXFGwd6wo7UM54-ak84/s1600/P3170138.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjI6TxiYTimFbq1WYg5kEPV6co_oWl2RVyBw2XNQfVUvZCkLU1VxM41hiXyRjp27WhIicltkzwv9MPkRAg8DqhoOn7vguJ1gABgkfUGhZ7f_OTM2rI7eHhNeoKZHXFGwd6wo7UM54-ak84/s1600/P3170138.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wN5MZmGjdQbyDuVwrFi6Ne8qEaaApqPJm1BJMrq_WuUCRRTPSZcKqvi_0ZQl3Cc9Ji6dFGyXwQ82Zp7w0OHm9murjRkmqfSG9zot7Y3l2Cr1KC15tcQqSgzd-h4vda2Tyg8n272DcwD7/s1600/P3170135.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wN5MZmGjdQbyDuVwrFi6Ne8qEaaApqPJm1BJMrq_WuUCRRTPSZcKqvi_0ZQl3Cc9Ji6dFGyXwQ82Zp7w0OHm9murjRkmqfSG9zot7Y3l2Cr1KC15tcQqSgzd-h4vda2Tyg8n272DcwD7/s1600/P3170135.JPG" /></a><br />
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Other things to say? Just that I really love it. It's not super practical. I chose a wool mix for warmth, but the shorter sleeves kind of make that counterproductive, plus the wide sleeves don't fit under any of my cardigans or coats, so it ends up bunched up and creased. Still love it though. And our office is warm, so it's a work top until the proper spring arrives. I fully intend to make more of these in stripes, more solids, maybe a shirting, definitely linen, possibly a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrN5DXDHOWg/">sweatshirt version</a>, all the options! I am clearly now a fully-fledged Paper Theory fangirl, having made all 3 existing patterns (hacked <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BoHLYnHhyyV/">LB Pullover not yet blogged</a>) and I have already acquired the new <a href="https://www.papertheory.com/product-page/zadie-jumpsuit">Zadie jumpsuit</a>. Just trying to decide on weather appropriate fabrics...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3MxXU3UJuoVA7Fo1YyX-PzrnII4OVFizgx0jF93p2r4pbCjwEwuN0_vWRLTBAdW-5FZNpu0WEV7wHcU56MJEF1hUoK3NXhR9h4OS7LPWq2c4m-6e5dpTS4sD8t2qM4BxebFB8BFTtCYv/s1600/P3170158.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3MxXU3UJuoVA7Fo1YyX-PzrnII4OVFizgx0jF93p2r4pbCjwEwuN0_vWRLTBAdW-5FZNpu0WEV7wHcU56MJEF1hUoK3NXhR9h4OS7LPWq2c4m-6e5dpTS4sD8t2qM4BxebFB8BFTtCYv/s1600/P3170158.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOyIswO6Pl5pBYN8CfATTlTZwHSj2eUa6T0_hsNhOwg0AK1HQ6q0FMpddHvapNK7kYJ1OeCSYVL5jIcB8kzYOr51YMSRKk2-kA1VfTl5pDANJNe1O7ZdEDOpvkQmOqdz_tK-1AFqdetZax/s1600/P3170117.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOyIswO6Pl5pBYN8CfATTlTZwHSj2eUa6T0_hsNhOwg0AK1HQ6q0FMpddHvapNK7kYJ1OeCSYVL5jIcB8kzYOr51YMSRKk2-kA1VfTl5pDANJNe1O7ZdEDOpvkQmOqdz_tK-1AFqdetZax/s1600/P3170117.JPG" /></a>Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-84281546689141339882019-03-04T11:35:00.001+00:002019-03-04T11:35:14.147+00:00Completed: Olya Shirt<div class="MsoNormal">
Let’s talk about stress sewing. Is it something you do? I
know that I love sewing for a number of reasons, one of which is its ability to
destress me. It consumes enough of my mental energy to allow me switch off from
other stuff, whether it be work, Brexit, Euan’s eczema or the state of my
garden. I actively seek out sewing as a distraction and a relaxant (assuming of
course that a project is going well!). But stress sewing is another matter.
Stress sewing is sewing in response to mega levels of stress, and in my case at
least, results in a far from perfect results. Unfortunately this shirt was a
stress sew. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I should probably give a bit of background here. I mentioned
<a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.com/2019/02/completed-fairfield-shirt.html">here </a>that I am going through redundancy. Basically we are getting a new system,
which will significantly change our ways of working. This in turn is driving a
restructure. My current job won’t exist in the new world, but there are other
jobs I can apply for in the new team, elsewhere in the company, or I can take
redundancy and go. A week after finding this out, we also found out that Paul’s
job was also under threat of redundancy. I had mostly been doing the ostrich
impression (head in the sand), but with half term holidays came time off work
and time to think. I am feeling all the emotions about my job. I anticipated
this happening, but didn’t know to what extent or when. The idea of having to
apply for a new job is anathema to me, I haven’t gone through recruitment in
over 10 years, but what upsets me the most that week is that I will likely
lose my flexible working. We have loads of flexibility in my current company
and role. I work 4 days, finish slightly early by taking a shorter lunch, we
get childcare vouchers, healthcare, an excellent pension and heaps of annual
leave. I can’t guarantee my current shift in any new role, so there is a good
solid chance I will need to work full time, which I know a lot of parents do,
but it's not what *I* want to do. Fraser starts school in August (I know!) and I really want to be able to take him to school at least once a week. Then chuck in the additional child care requirements both term time and holidays, plus what the boys would need to give up. I've never taken working part time as a given, but I didn't have children to never see them. Told you, all the feelings. <o:p></o:p></div>
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While I was off, I had a day’s sewing to myself, while Euan
was at a Bushcraft holiday club, and so I started on this shirt. Emboldened by
the success of <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.com/2019/02/completed-fairfield-shirt.html">Paul’s shirt</a> (I know *<b>all</b>* about shirtmaking now!), and
loving the design lines of the Olya, as well as having the perfect fabric in the
stash made an obvious project, and what better time to do than to also support
the <a href="https://susanyoungsewing.wordpress.com/2019/02/01/are-you-ready-for-the-first-sew-over-50-sewing-challenge/">So50visible</a> challenge. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPKXirJRzvM_Q1KWLHogqth8FdyPQ0LGcwFmklmvfKquK9c2xQ57q_lYevvvgdeQWyNf2H46YKlk97fN5nxSUmILmFesAp7APNX4_O6H3G4kOp7AY2x3B2CbcjYASUshSZvoZFQyedCHR/s1600/Line+Drawings.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPKXirJRzvM_Q1KWLHogqth8FdyPQ0LGcwFmklmvfKquK9c2xQ57q_lYevvvgdeQWyNf2H46YKlk97fN5nxSUmILmFesAp7APNX4_O6H3G4kOp7AY2x3B2CbcjYASUshSZvoZFQyedCHR/s400/Line+Drawings.JPG" /></a></div>
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The fabric is Atelier Brunette modal challis. It was a
limited edition collaboration, I think, from a couple of years ago. Its lightweight
and very drapey and it feels absolutely gorgeous to wear. I actually had it in
2 lengths, having first bought a 70cm remnant and then a further metre from a
different retailer at another point. The 2 lengths are actually slightly
different, with one having brighter colours and the other being more muted.
They also feel every so slightly different. I guess much like wallpaper, fabrics
have batches! I managed to squeeze the pieces into the 1.7m by cutting the yoke
on the cross grain. I even had just enough fabric to cut the collar second time
(which happens when you sew the first one upside down), but the rest was
minimal scraps. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Firstly, let me say this is a great pattern. It is well
drafted and very clever in design and construction. At the front, the sleeves and
front yoke are one piece, but at the back there is a sleeve seam attaching it
to the back yoke. This requires a very cool right angle on the shoulder which
is difficult but satisfying to sew. There are also concealed pockets in the seam
attaching the front yoke to the front bodice pieces. The instructions
definitely assume a good sewing ability and are not hand holding at all, but
there is a <a href="https://www.papertheory.com/olyashirtsewalong">sewalong </a>with more details should you require it (I’d recommend it
for the shoulder/sleeve seam). <o:p></o:p></div>
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Stress sewing a complex pattern with a slippery slidey fabric
was not my best idea, but in fairness I didn’t actually realise I was stress-sewing
at first. And actually, it’s not nearly as bad as I first thought . My topstitching
is dodgy at best, but not very noticeable. I did sew my first collar upside
down, but thankfully managed to cut another (although it’s interfaced in white,
not black). My edge stitching didn’t quite catch all the edges, but I rescued
this with a bit of hand stitching (collar stand, cuffs and part of the button
placket). My pockets are a bit messy, and I had to do a bit of jiggery-pokery
to get the sleeve seam to sit right, but honestly all issues were as a result of
the fabric and stress-induced slapdashery, rather than the pattern, and even
more honestly, literally none of these things are noticeable in the finished
garment. It still needs to stand up to repeated washing and wearing, but I am
absolutely delighted with it.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
I was in between sizes, so picked the smallest one, the 8, as this is loose fitting. Generally my waist is the largest size if I am between sizes, but the waist is not an issue on this pattern. I made no alterations to the pattern, other than to use a different method for attaching the collar, and to sew the bottom button hole horizontally, a trick I picked up from the Fairfield. I have no idea if this serves a purpose, but I liked the idea of it! :) In terms of attaching the collar, I used my preferred method, which is to attach the outer collar stand separately, make up the collar and the inner collar stand, then attach them to the outer collar stand (better explained <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html">here</a>). I have tried both methods and this is the only one that works for me. </div>
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I actually forgot about buttons, so had sewn most of it up
relatively quickly before realising I couldn’t do any more till I went shopping.
It was only when I paused that I realised that I was doing the whole
stress-sewing thing, basically sewing as a distraction (distracting me from
what I should have been doing which was my CV!), but in a way that was not careful
or particular and was pretty dismissive of the bits that I was recognising were
crap, as I was sewing them. Ah well, I thought, it doesn’t matter. This after
taking such care over Paul’s shirt. <o:p></o:p></div>
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All in all, this could be better, but I love it regardless.
I do want to invest in some fray check before I wash it, as I’m nervous about
that right angle’s ability to survive the washing machine (it’s sewn in a way
that’s impossible to completely encase the raw edge), as I want this to last. I
keep stroking myself as I wear it, it’s just so soft and silky. I will definitely
make this pattern again. I love the idea of stripes or contrast stitching,
something that really show off the design details. In the meantime, I am going
full Paper Theory fan girl. My next project is the Kabuki!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Before, I go, I wanted to mention a few things. Firstly, Paul's job is fine, so we are good for the time being at least.<br />
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Secondly, somewhere along the line, I have stopped referring to my boys as their nicknames, probably because they are frequently named on Instagram, and probably because they really have outgrown their nicknames. Anyway, in case you don't follow me there, here's a quick key: Euan = Small Boy and Fraser = Baby Boy.<br />
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Lastly, my hair. I decided last year to stop dying my hair. There are numerous and various reasons for this, which I won't get into, but it is something I'd been thinking about for a long while. It's one of these things that's a gradual change, so I did get quite a shock when I saw the photos I took for this post. It looks different, whiter, here than it does in the mirror. I'm OK with it turning grey/white but the inbetween process is a lot more noticeable than I realised. I don't really know why I feel the need to explain myself, but at least now you know!<br />
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Thanks for reading!Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-76266752705562918582019-02-27T22:01:00.000+00:002019-02-27T22:01:17.231+00:00Completed: Fairfield ShirtHello again! I took a break from Instagram this month, which has got me back into reading blogs, which in turn has apparently got me writing again. It's something I've been thinking about recently, but the writing and the photographing all take time, that I often don't have (and let's be honest, if I have time I prefer to prioritise actual sewing!). I'm not promising anything here. This year is going to be a busy one. I'm at threat of redundancy again, and I don't know what that's going to do to my work/life balance, but let's go with it for now.<br />
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I discovered I have 3 unfinished, unpublished posts that I wrote in June/July last year, plus many other projects finished but not documented, but rather than attempt to pick up where I left off, I'm going to crack on with the first thing I've made this year, a shirt.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0cTrn4cIVeD6tH-uYLaIS-ouTZdgAhVQNU-UKzCu1qw4ihQpWoFYKvMckDj2wVEmeG6O-xN2S6e-2aePHJQi6isnzAUS5p1gpbVZXsfJaWH6BXDM6fxmwmhr_BcDYrPl0VGp6QEeZy83/s1600/P2240217.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0cTrn4cIVeD6tH-uYLaIS-ouTZdgAhVQNU-UKzCu1qw4ihQpWoFYKvMckDj2wVEmeG6O-xN2S6e-2aePHJQi6isnzAUS5p1gpbVZXsfJaWH6BXDM6fxmwmhr_BcDYrPl0VGp6QEeZy83/s1600/P2240217.JPG" /></a><br />
I made this for Paul's Christmas. I know it's late, but I had other stuff to sew before Christmas, and I can't sew in secret from Paul anyway, so instead I made him a gift voucher, promising him a shirt. He's been asking me to make him something, anything, for about 8 years!<br />
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We chose the <a href="https://threadtheory.ca/products/fairfield-button-up-shirt-pdf">Fairfield shirt by Thread Theory</a> - it was the only pattern I showed him, but he liked it, so that was good and he chose the fabric, with some guidance and only one rule - no checks or horizontal stripes that would need matching. I had a gift voucher for <a href="https://www.dressfabriccompany.co.uk/">The Dress Fabrics Company,</a> that I didn't actually win, but acquired at Edinburgh Frocktails last year (<a href="https://www.pipedreampatterns.co.uk/">Joann </a>won it, then gave it to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/judithrosalind/">Judith</a>, who then gave it to me), so we had a look there and he found this shirting cotton. It's navy with a white pattern, which is reminiscent of a Sashiko wave pattern, although on a much smaller scale. Paul chose to have mountains rather than waves. I wasn't overly convinced about the print on him at first, it's quite different to what he normally wears, but now it's made up, I love it. It was also a dream to work with, a lovely stable change for someone who regularly tortures herself with drapey, shifty, frays like mad fabrics.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpuLBvtSmRzxSDUNOr1xEMSAQiD1XlrBdBjL3COVlUimXcTla5KHBgjeeiYhPi_3jpbQC_hwcmyQiYliT86OvcUvPNj95hiwzUn3PWN7qMtHnlrbIDmgjsiHyeL0uWyctVy7o5x54aaKkz/s1600/Line+Drawing.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpuLBvtSmRzxSDUNOr1xEMSAQiD1XlrBdBjL3COVlUimXcTla5KHBgjeeiYhPi_3jpbQC_hwcmyQiYliT86OvcUvPNj95hiwzUn3PWN7qMtHnlrbIDmgjsiHyeL0uWyctVy7o5x54aaKkz/s400/Line+Drawing.JPG" /></a></div>
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I loved making this shirt. The fabric probably helped. That plus it's just a great pattern, with excellent instructions. Shirt making is so satisfying. I've always enjoyed burritoing a yoke, but I also loved the tower sleeve plackets on this. My only previous experience of shirt making is the Archer, which has a bias binding placket and I do not like that at all. I will always do proper plackets now that I understand them, although I did cut them upside down. A stable cotton allowed me to be pretty precise, as there are some very small SAs on this pattern. This was also my first experience of flat-felled seams which were fine and slightly more straightforward than I expected, although that could be because the pattern is drafted to have them, with SAs offset in all the relevant places.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YeoxqBJrMsKKswg7hGAI31jq09p3gNVgmWjT2LDcjKHeGpYSMjWkS7MA7Nvm9SZ5YTsjJiUbqGKiRK-IgyUhrIFO2Ehd4q-dbm4NunzftVDSgOcUyLvpdMYyHsLFLEnE9GzzPn4bgwe_/s1600/IMG_4660.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YeoxqBJrMsKKswg7hGAI31jq09p3gNVgmWjT2LDcjKHeGpYSMjWkS7MA7Nvm9SZ5YTsjJiUbqGKiRK-IgyUhrIFO2Ehd4q-dbm4NunzftVDSgOcUyLvpdMYyHsLFLEnE9GzzPn4bgwe_/s1600/IMG_4660.jpg" /></a><br />
There were a few things I found odd about the pattern. Some notches that didn't match anything, for instance and I also found one of the notches on the button placket to be wrong - the pattern says it's a X seam allowance, but the notch is at the Y mark (can't be bothered to get up and check, sorry). I just ignored the notch and measured it myself.<br />
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I also didn't like the constantly changing seam allowances. I understand why the pattern is written like that, and have no alternative suggestions, but I find it hard to switch back and forth and as a result sewed more than one seam with the wrong SA, which then had to be ripped out.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBJoQQuK5l29EYhKw-m3K4D0RjjGP8-J88a-ecK15quViSeWvC7ALeEI50QiB-QNR-azXY0K3gaqg5iURMGx9Snp77QAbblqvj7AA1u-LSxP1_RAXsUgLMRyTlUcOK1M2BA2mjeRWNlbZ8/s1600/P2240205.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBJoQQuK5l29EYhKw-m3K4D0RjjGP8-J88a-ecK15quViSeWvC7ALeEI50QiB-QNR-azXY0K3gaqg5iURMGx9Snp77QAbblqvj7AA1u-LSxP1_RAXsUgLMRyTlUcOK1M2BA2mjeRWNlbZ8/s1600/P2240205.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEgPzaFYM9IH37ew4Z96PlRMLa-pfzsvOA99uiSjAMw0LDLTbXt_jRx1V0Y9KargZr9sVPl_r6SXEYN845K9Zx4nHboJ9eNwOekG2D_gKslaG9B33VU8-vEu8KEl0zv1RNpGKILxapn2Yi/s1600/P2240209.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEgPzaFYM9IH37ew4Z96PlRMLa-pfzsvOA99uiSjAMw0LDLTbXt_jRx1V0Y9KargZr9sVPl_r6SXEYN845K9Zx4nHboJ9eNwOekG2D_gKslaG9B33VU8-vEu8KEl0zv1RNpGKILxapn2Yi/s1600/P2240209.JPG" /></a><br />
In terms of the pattern, he chose the darts at the back, but no sleeve tabs. He did want the sleeve tabs, and I made them and attached them, but they didn't look right, so I persuaded him to remove them. They would be better on a summer version, I think.<br />
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I made no fit adjustments to this, and it's not bad at all. Paul has narrow shoulders, so I do need to alter the pattern here a bit, but its no worse than a RTW shirt. He must also have slightly short arms, as often shirt sleeves are too long, but he was happy with the length of them on this shirt. The collar is too tight, even though the measurements of the S matched his, but he won't do the top button up anyway, so no biggie. We made the size Small.<br />
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I had some real pattern matching wins on this. I made no attempt to match them at all (other than the breast pocket), yet the sewing gods were clearly smiling on me, with the collar matching the yoke, which in turn matches the shirt back!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fv9dH9L4unyWt7vg4_cOXrAEyCXMBAVRZ1_B1iqZHPjvSRxrUHBTRw2aVptpYH3Z_BY8mBdh7_1Dm_Jb7XkYj_3ofO6URpnysqujd7nLIqdehgS_SYYaMigclPbqqvyMXTrqXO2zF1Cu/s1600/IMG_4698.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fv9dH9L4unyWt7vg4_cOXrAEyCXMBAVRZ1_B1iqZHPjvSRxrUHBTRw2aVptpYH3Z_BY8mBdh7_1Dm_Jb7XkYj_3ofO6URpnysqujd7nLIqdehgS_SYYaMigclPbqqvyMXTrqXO2zF1Cu/s1600/IMG_4698.JPG" /></a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVsTlrECzRRShgsA7GuNahPQopU9NM4xu7w55IFtUDj0ItepACH-58t2xg-bLdQG0-I-_GtiS4wibLxDPsFpZfYLeGZCzn51gy72KPMqG5HWoavJsPXcpz6e53xW_9ST5mEcqoV5CMKS0_/s1600/CE22AC5A-76E2-4A42-9617-B92CC5B7A88B.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVsTlrECzRRShgsA7GuNahPQopU9NM4xu7w55IFtUDj0ItepACH-58t2xg-bLdQG0-I-_GtiS4wibLxDPsFpZfYLeGZCzn51gy72KPMqG5HWoavJsPXcpz6e53xW_9ST5mEcqoV5CMKS0_/s1600/CE22AC5A-76E2-4A42-9617-B92CC5B7A88B.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look at my pattern matching!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I added a few design details, in the form of a red button hole and the button also attached with red thread. It's a nice touch, which I stole from RTW and also <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jens.ks/">Jen</a>.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipQqZE3BCVN87TrNiXiVQeamqfeBShrn7Om0i_iI3bvetpryNV7SURKpxrmi61_L2HNU81_9-q5egzmO3EJATecclIvRXvHp5VrJ6zEHgl_dJ-DxQ8bdooZJ8sINVCd9IU6mv8qgDDKC8H/s1600/IMG_4708.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipQqZE3BCVN87TrNiXiVQeamqfeBShrn7Om0i_iI3bvetpryNV7SURKpxrmi61_L2HNU81_9-q5egzmO3EJATecclIvRXvHp5VrJ6zEHgl_dJ-DxQ8bdooZJ8sINVCd9IU6mv8qgDDKC8H/s1600/IMG_4708.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVSGyBcl24Mutd2IaRGhhzWSpVwMdKR3wkzJDz-F6M21ykU5MEjur5htM8Db0dB_mq53PARDiHULOwjEC490B65xXAOlD6a_EiKlttvR0iGmI6Iz_0oFKC3DqngeiBBbhwcXGcvoQprnZ/s1600/IMG_4705.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVSGyBcl24Mutd2IaRGhhzWSpVwMdKR3wkzJDz-F6M21ykU5MEjur5htM8Db0dB_mq53PARDiHULOwjEC490B65xXAOlD6a_EiKlttvR0iGmI6Iz_0oFKC3DqngeiBBbhwcXGcvoQprnZ/s1600/IMG_4705.JPG" /></a><br />
A success! Paul loves it, and I can't get over how much it looks like an actual shirt. I do realise that's a stupid thing to think and write - I make my own clothes all the time and they look like real clothes - but, and I don't know if it's the fact that this is a shirt, or if it's because it's for someone else, this is somehow different. I might even make him another!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZbatzvAE1-qa18hverKFxyaid-PXxuTdpN_wmdKi9M956HWwJl50AGAK_NcKY50BFFdWRgsNPBNNT3FRiamTJVNUREhQ9v9v9nGjbtQwo1gs7YZtKxN5XRY1IG4W4a0WyjXMG2XhXodC/s1600/P2240222.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZbatzvAE1-qa18hverKFxyaid-PXxuTdpN_wmdKi9M956HWwJl50AGAK_NcKY50BFFdWRgsNPBNNT3FRiamTJVNUREhQ9v9v9nGjbtQwo1gs7YZtKxN5XRY1IG4W4a0WyjXMG2XhXodC/s1600/P2240222.JPG" /></a><br />
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<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-42375289553406337822018-05-02T21:23:00.000+01:002018-05-02T21:23:24.733+01:00Me Made May 2018Well, it's here again, already! Can you believe it?<br />
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I'm just dropping in to say that I am participating in Me Made May again this year. I've pledged to wear as many handmade garments as possible each day. Realistically this will probably only be a maximum of 2, but there might be the odd day when I can manage a third.<br />
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I'd also like to take the opportunity to assess some of my makes and figure out why I don't wear them, if there is anything I can do to change that, or if not, what I'll do with them. I also want to figure out handmade wardrobe gaps. Finally, I need to do some mending, and I'd like to make a pair of jeans or another pair of trousers, but we'll see on that last one.<br />
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I'll try to do periodic round up posts, but you can see all my goings on on Instagram (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/grosgraingreen/">@grosgraingreen</a>).<br />
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Are you joining in this year? What's your pledge?Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-70410886085333502112018-04-12T21:58:00.000+01:002019-02-05T15:12:35.426+00:00Trouser InspoIt won't have escaped your notice that I've been sewing trousers recently (<a href="https://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2018/03/completed-emersonalexandria-mash-up.html">here </a>and <a href="https://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2018/02/completed-safran-jeans.html">here</a>), and I have just finished another pair of Emerson/Alexandria mash ups which have yet to be posted. I've talked and thought a lot about sewing trousers in the past, but never really managed to actually do the sewing. Suddenly I can't get enough!<br />
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I think there are a few reasons for this. Firstly, I'm just wearing trousers more. Generally casually, I live in skinny jeans and at work wear more dresses and skirts, but this winter I've definitely been wearing my RTW black skinnies to death. I'm not sure what's prompted this change and I suspect that come summer (IF summer ever cometh) that my skirts my come back out to play, but for now I want to wear trouser.<br />
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Secondly, I tried on quite a few RTW trousers and didn't like them. The fit was OK, but not good enough, and I figured I could at least attempt to do better myself.<br />
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Thirdly, the more you make trousers, the less scary they seem. Actually trousers are not difficult at all to make. Just hard to fit.<br />
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Lastly, there seems to have been an explosion of Indie trouser patterns in the past few years, which makes the whole thing easier still, albeit with some limitations (see below).<br />
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What I will say though, is that I am fussy about the shapes and styles that I wear, and none more so than trousers. I can't always put my finger on what I don't like about things, I just know they aren't right for me, and sadly from the sewing point of view, often I can't identify this until I've actually tried them on. Case in point the <a href="https://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/completed-alexandria-trousers.html">Alexandria pants</a> and more recently the <a href="https://frenchnavy.co.za/the-calyer-pants/">Calyers</a>, which I muslined and then rejected (same problem with fabric volume as the Alexandria). This quickly becomes an expensive hobby (the Calyer pdf cost £10), so I am trying to come up with some ways to identify whether a pattern is likely to be a winner or not, BEFORE I make the purchase. This still needs some work, but in the meantime, I thought I'd share some lovely trouser inspiration with you. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but it's some of the patterns I have my eye on currently, in that "my eyes are bigger than my sewing ability" way we all know.<br />
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<b>Wide Legs</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqim4OZcUSMLGlFXSgHL7FbE2BGShdLGeE4Isgsssq8Pwfz8kymXis0PhSGmmP9mp_iZ32FdA8C4oD9ON2Tw0KKLmEOOtjkGPKu5gJiXLusXAtDeAlajvEc87NgkS6xcC0Ocbxrej_Jxlw/s1600/Wide+leg+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqim4OZcUSMLGlFXSgHL7FbE2BGShdLGeE4Isgsssq8Pwfz8kymXis0PhSGmmP9mp_iZ32FdA8C4oD9ON2Tw0KKLmEOOtjkGPKu5gJiXLusXAtDeAlajvEc87NgkS6xcC0Ocbxrej_Jxlw/s1600/Wide+leg+collage.jpg" /></a><br />
I love the cropped wide leg look, and am keen to recreate a pair<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bedh7iFgKU0/?taken-by=grosgraingreen"> I tried on in Jigsaw</a> a couple of months ago but didn't buy because they were dry-clean only and itchy wool. This is a selection of patterns I've been considering. I have previously made and do like the True Bias Emerson pants (not pictured), but would like to move away from an elasticated waistband. I think I like the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_uk_en_gb_e-clothing-womens_clothing-pants_and_capris&utm_custom1=37591c96-40a2-445a-94da-d2474d2d4f3c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh7zWBRCiARIsAId9b4pLoN035wRrhM8Pk3C5LcPJxTyKX6JzBSfwBYueZDgcoxB0t4JYV94aAqFlEALw_wcB">Anna Allen Persephone</a> and <a href="http://republiqueduchiffon.com/en/pdf-pattern/94-gaston-trousers.html">RDC Gaston's</a> best, due to the covered fly and the slightly wider leg, but the others, the <a href="http://shop.truebias.com/product/lander-pant-short">True Bias Lander Pants</a> and the <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/collections/pants-skirts/products/nagoya-pants">Papercut Nagoya Pants</a> are strong contenders. I prefer that the Lander has back pockets, but they are easy things to add to a different pattern. I'd like to make a black pair for work (fabric tbc, but maybe a canvas?) and also a pair in denim. I LOVE <a href="http://verypurpleperson.com/2018/04/denim-persephone-pants/?utm_source=bloglovin.com&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+verypurpleperson+%28%3A%3A+verypurpleperson+%3A%3A%29">Novita's </a>version of the Persephones. So gorgeous.<br />
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<i>Aside</i>: I mentioned above about elastic waists. I actually never thought I'd write this, but I have nothing against elastic waists per se, however there are a <i>lot</i> of Indie trouser patterns out there with elastic waists, whether full or back only, and I'm wondering why. They are definitely easier to sew, so perhaps easier to tempt trouser-making newbies in (plus since elastic waists go with baggier trousers, less potential fitting to be scared of?), but given it's more than likely that most people will make skirts or dresses before they make the jump to trousers, they will have sewn darts and a zip or 2, making trousers with a side zip not insurmountable. Personally, with well written and illustrated instructions to follow, I don't find a fly that difficult either. Do pattern designers themselves dislike fly front or side/back zip trousers and assume their customers feel the same? Or do they actually want to avoid writing the instructions, which I can imagine are probably difficult to describe for a fly zip, and while there are some very good tutorials out there, you can't really produce a pattern and then direct your customer to someone else's tutorial. Or, actually, is it just that elastic waists are trendier/have become more socially acceptable in recent years? I have no idea, and I have no strong feelings about it. It's just something that I've been thinking about since I've been looking for some patterns <i>without </i>an elastic waist.<br />
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<b>Peg Legs and Pleats</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHyddh68_tCCnGkhJG0y3B_NrypvkRhaBvhYBzqz9y7H4jeccdqckSzHVO6gn85teyaZzIwC9sdhA1xtSGz4H01VX1RjP-VytPKD9SfEr2h6XzWTk_SqK2AJ8tW3z-QTYCcNsu8-IZctq/s1600/Peg+legs+and+pleats+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHyddh68_tCCnGkhJG0y3B_NrypvkRhaBvhYBzqz9y7H4jeccdqckSzHVO6gn85teyaZzIwC9sdhA1xtSGz4H01VX1RjP-VytPKD9SfEr2h6XzWTk_SqK2AJ8tW3z-QTYCcNsu8-IZctq/s1600/Peg+legs+and+pleats+collage.jpg" /></a><br />
Obviously I've made a few peg leg and pleated trousers with some mixed results. I REALLY love teh look of them, but I struggle with the wearing of them. My successes have all been with the pleats of the Emerson, which are pretty shallow and short. This combination doesn't seem to give me the excess at the front crotch and thigh area, which I find problematic. This is why I think the <a href="http://orageuse.com/boutique/bruges-trousers/?lang=en">Orangeuse Patterns Bruges Trousers</a> might work for me. I'm not convinced by the side stripe on the legs, but that's optional, and I really like the rest of the pattern. No back pockets again, but I'm sure I could add welt pockets (she said, never having sewn welt pockets in her life). The <a href="http://republiqueduchiffon.com/en/home/56-claude-trousers.html">RDC Claude Trousers</a> interest me, but they look quite different depending on the version you see.<i> </i>I do like the versions that Christine has made <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BfviOpChFHP/?taken-by=mrs.f_72">here </a>and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BbkP_EshHEq/?taken-by=mrs.f_72">here</a>. I even dreamed about them (true story)! Finally the <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/search?q=guise">Papercut Patterns Guise Pants</a>. I really wish these weren't elasticated at the back, but I suspect the pleats are probably going to be a problem anyway, so it's highly unlikely I'd make these. But they look nice, don't they?<br />
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<b>Skinnies and Jeans</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMOnznv0BBMX1Zna4d5CoMKr5Y7xiovm_rUtrSw7ovg_1y7MJBHLNPPM_KqhXCkG_JEWHqkgzSLYVcqYBJ5T6d0bqReFau0GYC1fVpuDk71wi6uXqxv7Ei_xSctVNVRM9a5U8cZxidF6i/s1600/Skinnies+and+Jeans+Collage.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMOnznv0BBMX1Zna4d5CoMKr5Y7xiovm_rUtrSw7ovg_1y7MJBHLNPPM_KqhXCkG_JEWHqkgzSLYVcqYBJ5T6d0bqReFau0GYC1fVpuDk71wi6uXqxv7Ei_xSctVNVRM9a5U8cZxidF6i/s1600/Skinnies+and+Jeans+Collage.jpg" /></a><br />
Dead easy to wear, there will be room in my wardrobe for skinnies for a while yet. I've been meaning to make the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern">Closet Case Ginger jeans</a> for a while, I have the pattern and one of my RTW pairs has just gone through at the knee, so it's inevitable they wiill happen. If I like them, I might also try the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/sasha-trousers-pattern">Sashas</a> which are made from the same block. I chucked the <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/products/starboard-jeans">Papercut Patterns Starboard jeans</a> on there too as it has some interesting details.<br />
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<b>Finally</b><br />
<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhus_GL_LJBKmJjd4FcSwUfM6RHxBgQodaUNgNeXwYP70x1JKteTdurGbbp-J79Rf-TTDse0qG-1CaTPgx55_qVY8dwuDF_-F7xjZAi3bl-auPw6WHR4SDf4c93zWSxeCeZFRiQIP72oz4c/s1600/Clyde_Arenite.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhus_GL_LJBKmJjd4FcSwUfM6RHxBgQodaUNgNeXwYP70x1JKteTdurGbbp-J79Rf-TTDse0qG-1CaTPgx55_qVY8dwuDF_-F7xjZAi3bl-auPw6WHR4SDf4c93zWSxeCeZFRiQIP72oz4c/s1600/Clyde_Arenite.jpg" /></a></b><br />
I've been a bit obsessed with the <a href="https://elizabethsuzann.com/collections/signature/products/clyde-work-pant-cotton-canvas2?variant=1005225345049">Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Pants</a> for a while. They have an elasticated waist, so I might not actually like them on me, but I love the drafting. No side seam with a capacious scoop shape pocket and a tapered leg. I even like this weird khaki colour. Unfortunately they are RTW, sold in the US and out of my price range. I recently came across the <a href="http://sewliberated.com/products/arenite-pants-pdf-sewing-pattern">Sew Liberated Arenite Pants</a> on Instagram and while I wouldn't wear this slouchy, relaxed shape, it has a lot in common with the Clyde pants. So much so, that I am considering buying the pattern to hack. I'm not sure how easy it would be to do with no side seams, but if I could reduce the ease enough, it could work. It's not a priority, but it would be an interesting experiment.<br />
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So, there you go. That's the round up of what's going on in my head at the moment. I wonder what, if any I will actually make?! :)Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-90231022243796348712018-04-02T09:30:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:17:40.688+00:00Competed: RTW T-Shirt CopyDoing a rub off of a RTW garment is something I've been meaning to have a go at for a while, but never quite got round to. As I said previously, my recent makes have all been pretty practical, and this is no different. I just need all the long sleeved things right now, preferably to layer on top of each other and wear all at once.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_YL9Yz6QV_1AaSTf417aKobcrf9qYjjts14iw0o26ppbwKq1FHSF3rKbit9rL6nxTG0q62NbIa91MZmtups_8nhd8N7GDX0vBu6CND7LfpsuycSb-ktQSZw1UhFTXcK6KmgQpR2DdQfo9/s1600/P3110552.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_YL9Yz6QV_1AaSTf417aKobcrf9qYjjts14iw0o26ppbwKq1FHSF3rKbit9rL6nxTG0q62NbIa91MZmtups_8nhd8N7GDX0vBu6CND7LfpsuycSb-ktQSZw1UhFTXcK6KmgQpR2DdQfo9/s1600/P3110552.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qVvc4wt1QETBhGIiAAmYlZVVcwJaolp8yaTkD6UC2GDWwloch65GKSPwcsSrXSAcOQvfliyXWC9cdSVGxDJkIgfvo3LLzNNhT5vkL2wieDX424ZGp3CCuQnxS5Y-LG7Ewb3BYiLCHevX/s1600/P3110550.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qVvc4wt1QETBhGIiAAmYlZVVcwJaolp8yaTkD6UC2GDWwloch65GKSPwcsSrXSAcOQvfliyXWC9cdSVGxDJkIgfvo3LLzNNhT5vkL2wieDX424ZGp3CCuQnxS5Y-LG7Ewb3BYiLCHevX/s1600/P3110550.JPG" /></a><br />
I have a bit of an obsession with <a href="http://www.boden.co.uk/en-gb/womens-tops-t-shirts/long-sleeved-tops/wo143/womens-long-sleeve-breton?w=STYLE_JUMP">Boden's long sleeve Breton tees</a>, and currently own 3. It's the stripes but also the shape I love, particularly the neckline and if Boden did this shape in solid colourways, I'd buy even more, but they don't. No problemo. I can make one.<br />
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I kind of used a hybrid of tutorials, mixed with intuition to come up with a method. Using my ironing board as a base, I lay out the top, put paper on top, then used a pin to trace the edges by punching holes in the paper. Using a pencil, I then joined up the pin holes to get the outline, truing up the pattern pieces as I went.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivrnPPtcOh5RjpdvzNMnDlCg1t_fiKLE-e3gLluV-eLjHXXBB2jbnAin7bGimSZ8tiTaEeFr4-PG62lx9MLa0EnDcs3-b8mRsVK_Sd-ixOS4ksuaUGsPBigGFnOFekIJGBNHeCJkIIiOpF/s1600/P3110558.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivrnPPtcOh5RjpdvzNMnDlCg1t_fiKLE-e3gLluV-eLjHXXBB2jbnAin7bGimSZ8tiTaEeFr4-PG62lx9MLa0EnDcs3-b8mRsVK_Sd-ixOS4ksuaUGsPBigGFnOFekIJGBNHeCJkIIiOpF/s1600/P3110558.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitv_K_2lcRhMsrrlPAmzFlCdSdUkrD6QbYrX1q0cKUqQq5oaE5rD3Co786NUUe1Vvi6xjyrDpQHxbzuNabbhBuEUWQyln3buoWrLKgdkUPG4Ky8-AqHYAIKocJ2njMmwDEdYUXbGQZDlDT/s1600/P3110560.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitv_K_2lcRhMsrrlPAmzFlCdSdUkrD6QbYrX1q0cKUqQq5oaE5rD3Co786NUUe1Vvi6xjyrDpQHxbzuNabbhBuEUWQyln3buoWrLKgdkUPG4Ky8-AqHYAIKocJ2njMmwDEdYUXbGQZDlDT/s1600/P3110560.JPG" /></a><br />
It more or less worked, although in hindsight I'd change a few things. The SA on the original garment, which I stuck with, was pretty small at about 1/2cm. I found this difficult to sew - my machine has a tendency to chew up small seams - so would increase the SA next time. I suspect I should have used the pins to trace the seam line and then add the whatever SA I needed. I also didn't true up the pattern edges as well as I should have, which became apparent when putting the pieces together, but I just trimmed the pieces to fit and it doesn't appear to have caused any problems.<br />
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The fit seems a bit snugger than the original, but that might be down to the SA issue, plus possibly the fabric. The original tee is 100% cotton, so it probably stretches out slightly with wear. The fabric I used is a mystery content knit in black neon slubs. I bought it a couple of years ago from <a href="http://www.thesweetmercerie.com/indexus.cfm">The Sweet Mercerie</a>. I suspect it's a cotton/polyester mix, with some elastane.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4_i5w0Ido84e1zcABjvNCJz3skDuRrO3thPo6c_9yOCg4XsJ816752zeGi8NhentFY48yXD6loOaREmy1-sGmiOqGQ9I2y-xBTD4gkd1ICYgzV3CKRFyiv0d1zqqJzkw2mVXuDYS7Vim/s1600/P3110569.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4_i5w0Ido84e1zcABjvNCJz3skDuRrO3thPo6c_9yOCg4XsJ816752zeGi8NhentFY48yXD6loOaREmy1-sGmiOqGQ9I2y-xBTD4gkd1ICYgzV3CKRFyiv0d1zqqJzkw2mVXuDYS7Vim/s1600/P3110569.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjfis5p38g9MPCf-7azaqirfXtdovtyCSk9gdL6yWVTgxGMEMQSLQBEcsbG7yylrctqOxmYSZX9fJblyWi36zhEv1JPKqnLgosM9WxpqsRUeaD4MqSbWiapp7YgVnBSXkeRj2N-oEKZ0O/s1600/P3110568.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjfis5p38g9MPCf-7azaqirfXtdovtyCSk9gdL6yWVTgxGMEMQSLQBEcsbG7yylrctqOxmYSZX9fJblyWi36zhEv1JPKqnLgosM9WxpqsRUeaD4MqSbWiapp7YgVnBSXkeRj2N-oEKZ0O/s1600/P3110568.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1IMhtt1I_fF7fFrXi5l1fbFfX9EGXIUM_F8d4kJLpgCtV-_Div5bFL8iPD1-JiRRB_CAziaD088qtfTw9YFNQEwuSR4sbCG9G5mb_1woAZprlznQUhCF2ffhfG6w6M3uJg8jlGeBEK4B/s1600/P3110571.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1IMhtt1I_fF7fFrXi5l1fbFfX9EGXIUM_F8d4kJLpgCtV-_Div5bFL8iPD1-JiRRB_CAziaD088qtfTw9YFNQEwuSR4sbCG9G5mb_1woAZprlznQUhCF2ffhfG6w6M3uJg8jlGeBEK4B/s1600/P3110571.JPG" /></a><br />
Construction was straightforward. Originally I was going to just fold the neckline under, but I opted to take inspiration from the original, which has an internally bound neckline. I did this first, then sewed shoulder seams, armscye and lastly the sleeve and side seams in a oner. The original tee has a little bound split side seam at the bottom, but I didn't bother with that.<br />
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I'm not sure there is much more to say. I'm really happy with how this worked out and the top is getting plenty of wear (under jumpers). I will tweak the pattern a bit, increase the SA and then will definitely make more. I'll still buy the Boden striped versions, because I like them, but it's always nice to have options!<br />
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Have you ever done a RTW "rub off"? I'm keen to find out other people's experiences and to know if you have any tips.Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-31582683386989359382018-03-26T22:01:00.002+01:002019-02-05T14:17:53.564+00:00Completed: Emerson/Alexandria Mash UpI made another pair of trousers. I seem to be on a roll with trousers at the moment, so I'm going with it, although black basics really don't make for the most exciting blog posts.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d__0W5s_tgqsFz5HqN9leznQyuy2iqQZ5hpNR_wcwLZk2ztCo8vREePZr1mblP-4f7V2qgJ1fW3c15fF9UNUpQoae0NcCwlLRgoW5mnkiIIqR-pbxObH9bs9UoEQrYvMjmzySgl7lqIF/s1600/P3110526.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d__0W5s_tgqsFz5HqN9leznQyuy2iqQZ5hpNR_wcwLZk2ztCo8vREePZr1mblP-4f7V2qgJ1fW3c15fF9UNUpQoae0NcCwlLRgoW5mnkiIIqR-pbxObH9bs9UoEQrYvMjmzySgl7lqIF/s1600/P3110526.JPG" /></a><br />
This is a mash up of the <a href="http://shop.truebias.com/product/emerson-crop-pant-shorts">True Bias Emersons</a> (top part) with the <a href="https://www.namedclothing.com/shop/alexandria-peg-trousers/">Named Alexandria Peg Pants</a> (legs). The Emersandria? I can't fully take credit for this combo. Someone, can't remember who, or when, made a tapered leg Emersons ages ago on Instagram which obviously planted a seed. I bought a pair of <a href="https://www.uniqlo.com/uk/en/product/women-smart-style-ankle-length-trousers-404660.html?dwvar_404660_color=COL06&dwvar_404660_size=SMA001&cgid=IDankle-trousers1373">Uniqlo trousers</a> recently which were nice, but didn't fit that well and I thought "I could make something similar" which made me put both patterns together. I kept the Uniqlo merino jumper, which I am wearing in these photos £15!).<br />
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Anyway, the patterns went together well. I traced the Emersons down as far as the shorts line, then blended into the Alexandria legs. I also scooped a little out of the front crotch curve because I felt like the shorts I made last summer needed it.<br />
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The fabric is a poly/viscose gaberdine with quite a lot of stretch. I bought it from Splendid Stitch a while back with plans to another pattern that never really worked out. It has a lovely drape which makes it perfect for this style, although the poly makes it a little hard to press - it's quite bouncy. It's also thick, noticeable when sewing over multiple layers like at the pocket at the side seams, but it behaves nicely and isn't staticky like other polys. Unfortunately Splendid Stitch appear to have sold out of it. I bought a remnant in grey because I liked it so much, although the grey does remind me of Euan's school trousers.<br />
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There's not a lot to say about this make. I like the Emerson shape at the top. I love the pleats and the fact that for some reason they don't add volume at the crotch like other pleated trouser patterns I've tried. I also like the leg shape of the Alexandria, so the combo is pretty perfect for me. Oh, I added a bit of width to the back pattern piece at the calf. Something that I apparently need for all trousers.<br />
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I love these trousers. I seem to have to have my hands in the pockets all the time for some reason, but that's OK. They are extremely comfortable with drape and stretch of the fabric, plus the elasticated back waist band. I love them so much that I'm making a second pair with that grey remnant. Personally, I don't really like them with ankle boots, so they are better for the brighter days with flats and (gasp) bare ankles. Fingers crossed we have more brighter days soon.<br />
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I'd like to continue my trouser making journey a bit more. I definitely plan to make Ginger jeans, and I'm exploring other trouser pattern options that have proper fastenings. I'm not opposed to elastic waists (certainly not with a flat waistband at the front), and they are quick to make, but I'd like to try something else and have a bit of variety.<br />
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<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-88935648105978741312018-02-21T09:00:00.000+00:002019-02-05T14:18:03.128+00:00Completed: Astoria Sweatshirt (Hacked)This is the <a href="https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/astoria">Seamwork Astoria </a>sweater. It's the first Seamwork pattern i've made, despite having had a subscription for the first year it launched. I'll be honest, I'm not that fussed about most of the patterns. There have been a few I've quite liked, but never quite enough to actually prioritise the sewing of them, but I always did quite like the Astoria.<br />
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There were a few things that slightly put me off making it previously. It's both very fitted and very cropped and I just am not overly comfortable with things being very tight over my stomach or bust. I did like the neckline though, and as I was recently in the market for a slightly more smart/dressy top for work, and I wanted a sweatshirt, I thought the Astoria would be a good starting point.<br />
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I sized up. My bust size put me at an XS, but I went with the finished measurements, opting to make a S instead. I had a quick chat with <a href="https://redheadthreadsews.wordpress.com/">Christine </a>who has made a few of these before, and, at her suggestion, took out the waist shaping, straightening the pattern from bust down to hip. This widened the hip, so I checked by how much, and added that onto the width of the waistband, also taking the shaping out of that. I also added 6cm to the length at the lengthen/shorten lines.<br />
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As a last hack, to make it a bit dressier still, I added a ruffle cuff to the sleeve, a little detail I'd spotted on a RTW jumper.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY4b_th87lTK8idxrp-sWTRcahHYMDaIQc1VrZzjQHbW_8jnMbr60fA6m2mEge-kAEUeuGBre9yhOx0UCjB0ADepMqhgozWlUFHkvVmoH0XZ9HcLxGCmtSFwGcATKlGxLLIx514ZhOkQsV/s1600/P2110634.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY4b_th87lTK8idxrp-sWTRcahHYMDaIQc1VrZzjQHbW_8jnMbr60fA6m2mEge-kAEUeuGBre9yhOx0UCjB0ADepMqhgozWlUFHkvVmoH0XZ9HcLxGCmtSFwGcATKlGxLLIx514ZhOkQsV/s1600/P2110634.JPG" /></a><br />
I'm fairly happy with how this worked out and I like the resultant shape. It's fitted, but not tight over the bust, and then more relaxed over my waist. It's still fairly short for a sweatshirt, but perfect for me over high waisted bottoms. I do find the sleeves to be very tight below the elbow, particularly when bearing in mind that I sized up. If I made this again, I'd add a bit of width to the bottom half of the sleeve, but really my fabric probably didn't have quite as much stretch as the pattern asks for. Initially, I made the sleeves too long. I removed the inch hem allowance and took a further 3/8 inch SA to attach the ruffle cuff, but they are still too long, so I went back and removed the first ruffle cuff, cut more length off (can't remember how much, sorry), and cut and sewed another ruffle cuff. Unfortunately, I cut the second cuff the same width, but clearly the sleeve is wider since sleeves narrow to the wrist, so now the ruffle is less pronounced, and I think looks a bit daft. Not sure I can be bothered to do it again though. I topstitched the SA on the ruffle cuff to the sleeve as the first iteration has a tendency to flip out, and this has helped.<br />
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I think the shoulders are a little big, probably a result of sizing up. It doesn't bother me, but if I do make this again, I think I'll shave a little off the armscye.<br />
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Finally, let's talk about the neckband. So, I always baste my neckbands (and collar and sleeve bands for that matter). I really struggle with stretching to fit, plus working round pins, plus curling knit fabric edges, so I tend to baste, check and remove puckers etc, then sew in place. This time I decided not to. And I sewed the neckband on with raw edges to the outside. Gah! I spent a good few hours unpicking it (black thread, black fabric, teeny tiny lightening bolt stitch), making at least one hole in the process... only to then sew it on the wrong way round the second time! So, the neckband joining seam is at the front. I wasn't unpicking it again. I'd already made one hole (I sewed the neckband on the second time with a bigger SA to compensate), and I wasn't about to try that again. And actually it doesn't bother me in the slightest. I don't think you really see it when it's on, and if anyone asks, it's a design detail!<br />
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The fabric is the <a href="https://www.thesplendidstitch.co.uk/collections/knits-mediumweight/products/serena-black-french-terry">black loop back terry</a> from Splendid Stitch, which is currently out of stock unfortunately. It's a really nice fabric actually. Cotton with elastane, which a lot of french terry doesn't have. The loops are not very obvious on the wrong side, and the right side has a lovely smooth face. It's a decent weight and the elastane means it has good recovery, so it would be good for some joggers or something similar. I wish she had it in lots more colours!<br />
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True fact - I have only just realised that I appear to have cut this out on the cross grain. The rib of the fabric in these photos very clearly runs horizontally. D'oh!<br />
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Final verdict - this isn't my favourite sweatshirt pattern, but I do like it. I think it'll work well in a work context with midi skirts and boots, and you can never go amiss with a black top. I wore it a few times over the Christmas period, with my silver pleated velvet midi skirt and also black jeans. It dresses up nicely with some jewellery or down with jeans and trainers. Very versatile, so I should get lots of wear out of it.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0L8U8wa835vJmlCItgzIdg69usGt_pS7VE-OmjjgMbMahuqbLKhowUQ6246jF1ildHtNMMyyEtZ1CdoiCnpfEDhuZy7EyKjALtM9_iU2CZDbyShZUVBOy1b5-VY3zPEukJPGfvPhJmg8/s1600/P2110646.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0L8U8wa835vJmlCItgzIdg69usGt_pS7VE-OmjjgMbMahuqbLKhowUQ6246jF1ildHtNMMyyEtZ1CdoiCnpfEDhuZy7EyKjALtM9_iU2CZDbyShZUVBOy1b5-VY3zPEukJPGfvPhJmg8/s1600/P2110646.JPG" /></a>Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-22491749007293294252018-02-17T17:13:00.000+00:002019-02-05T15:16:52.219+00:00Completed: Silver pleated velvet skirt!There really isn't too much to say about this skirt, other than isn't it fabulous?!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My phone is my camera remote, and it kept disconnecting, which is why I am constantly looking at my phone in these photos!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxqhCprCxuCxqUybVA-QCRc4MbDrjk1qfdU0xlZ03RfUsnoq-RVEFUBuHZ-xFFvDOnXp7hyaUVn9wBtCCa68TqPHOnnwFUzhhSMbcQ4Q4Y-tpusaqfIOORWOqAuCspjj8UcqlzkDgoaZA/s1600/P2110612.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxqhCprCxuCxqUybVA-QCRc4MbDrjk1qfdU0xlZ03RfUsnoq-RVEFUBuHZ-xFFvDOnXp7hyaUVn9wBtCCa68TqPHOnnwFUzhhSMbcQ4Q4Y-tpusaqfIOORWOqAuCspjj8UcqlzkDgoaZA/s1600/P2110612.JPG" /></a><br />
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I really wasn't going to make a Christmas party outfit this year, but I kind of fell in love with the pleated velvet from the Fabric Godmother. I loved the olive colour, but it sold out pretty quickly. Luckily Josie then got the silver in stock (now sold out, but the taupe is in the <a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/velvet/">sale</a>!).<br />
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Because my brain was not engaged, I thought one metre wouldn't be enough, so ordered 2. I knew I wanted at least 1.5m width in the skirt and as I was making this on the cross grain, I thought 1m wouldn't work, but I completely forgot that I could have cut the fabric down the length to make 2 widths, and this never even clicked until I cut the fabric out! Ah well. Doing it this way meant I only had one side seam to sew. The waistband is wide black elastic attached to the selvedge, so that the elastic is exposed, and the skirt is unhemmed. It took less than an hour from start to finish.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjauj-WLseVrSUwYguRvbm6rro9wnbzSPOhZSaJsFaA0yDpvOXaiO0kjdrwaEQPfdiu91O8-PObYgptFK5vzaAOdmnLJ9aI0_JXLgBIC7hz0FTGiY7zB1QJA4ZSG68HLtpT0sBlijya5b9H/s1600/P2110606.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjauj-WLseVrSUwYguRvbm6rro9wnbzSPOhZSaJsFaA0yDpvOXaiO0kjdrwaEQPfdiu91O8-PObYgptFK5vzaAOdmnLJ9aI0_JXLgBIC7hz0FTGiY7zB1QJA4ZSG68HLtpT0sBlijya5b9H/s1600/P2110606.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoTTqZ3LQMX-xRoeEMXsq2JE2Jp7ste7VW08T3OAeqyLu9OsE1GchUdI20JfGCICP-Wv3HWJbF0dOv0bGTMFfQVE6TtpA87nHMvdYVI7GXEDjr6j74XaAE00Vem6nacUkO6ICcpyPz66P/s1600/P2110652.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoTTqZ3LQMX-xRoeEMXsq2JE2Jp7ste7VW08T3OAeqyLu9OsE1GchUdI20JfGCICP-Wv3HWJbF0dOv0bGTMFfQVE6TtpA87nHMvdYVI7GXEDjr6j74XaAE00Vem6nacUkO6ICcpyPz66P/s1600/P2110652.JPG" /></a><br />
It's really too long in it's current state. I have worn it a few times as is, but I think I'll get more wear if it's a bit shorter, although I still plan to keep it well below knee length. The elastic is also slightly on the tight side. I generally seem to make skirt waistbands too large, even when elasticated, so I slightly overcompensated with this one. I might cut it off and sew a longer length on, which also might resolve the length issue and is why I haven't done anything about it yet... We will see. In the meantime, I have a lovely slightly sparkly, swishy, tactile skirt that goes with pretty much everything! Hurrah!<br />
<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-4341959282021485652018-02-14T09:00:00.000+00:002019-02-05T14:18:16.478+00:00Completed: Chat Chocolat Linden<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrNsDtUvTQ_c_M9UyUBD_JuAzWGdRn3A7xopZMaEF3SWvaqEmtU4MG0gLy9uyTIrTZF36gDLYpOG_We9q9226zkkMi_i9mvDvNYYJuSw-XPHciqMjNQNH0bS9bTy-wXz0zhccOO46O0vM/s1600/P2110549.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrNsDtUvTQ_c_M9UyUBD_JuAzWGdRn3A7xopZMaEF3SWvaqEmtU4MG0gLy9uyTIrTZF36gDLYpOG_We9q9226zkkMi_i9mvDvNYYJuSw-XPHciqMjNQNH0bS9bTy-wXz0zhccOO46O0vM/s1600/P2110549.JPG" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I decided a wee while back that I really wanted a dark green sweatshirt for this winter. I’ve been meaning to make the Linden again for a while – my <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/completed-ampersand-sweatshirt.html">ampersand </a>version is literally my most worn piece of clothing, handmade or shop bought – but I’m a bit picky about fabrics and colours for sweatshirts, plus I was worried that a solid coloured version might be a bit dull. I can’t remember how I got onto them, but somehow I came across <a href="http://www.chatchocolat.com/">Chat Chocolat</a>’s website and signed up to their newsletter, thinking they sold fabric directly to the public in the manner of Atelier Brunette. When they emailed their newsletter featuring their new collection, <a href="http://www.chatchocolat.com/were-all-stars/">We're All Stars</a>, I immediately fell for the forest green version. As it turns out, they only sell wholesale, but they have one UK supplier in the form of <a href="https://faberwood.com/">Faberwood</a>, which of course, I had known all the time because I’ve seen their fabric on Fiona’s website before. So… being a bit cheeky, I DM’d Fiona to ask if she was considering stocking it. She wasn’t even aware of it, but because she is so lovely and has such fabulous taste, she very quickly got in touch when them and within a matter of weeks, had it on the website, alongside the solid green, should crosses not be your thing.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMmGk8riCa9vqJxcyETKVgVkMyrOFpDmpG6JL0umIQB4NYgWv5pIG8CVUpmp4ZUitm82xeA_qkdKnOZKxz1jtaecTiqc38dmLWEq9gGe0PbmCifPRL6oXZZQaaF0fLapzPnlyHO4zhjHb/s1600/P2110548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMmGk8riCa9vqJxcyETKVgVkMyrOFpDmpG6JL0umIQB4NYgWv5pIG8CVUpmp4ZUitm82xeA_qkdKnOZKxz1jtaecTiqc38dmLWEq9gGe0PbmCifPRL6oXZZQaaF0fLapzPnlyHO4zhjHb/s1600/P2110548.JPG" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I am going to rave about this fabric, because, well it’s fabulous and also because I would feel guilty in the unlikely event that Fiona doesn’t shift the rest (she did and has since restocked it!). It’s a very stable sweatshirting with a lovely, cosy, fleecy back. It doesn’t have a lot of stretch, something I didn’t really consider, and is less drapey than say, the Atelier Brunette sweatshirting, although isn’t much thicker. The colour is a glorious forest green, deeply saturated and gorgeous.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I made a <a href="https://grainlinestudio.com/shop/women/linden-sweatshirt-paper/">Linden</a>, as originally planned, but with a couple of changes. I sewed the size 4, but used a ½” seam allowance everywhere, except the sleeves due to the lack of stretch in the fabric – initially I sewed them at ½” too, but they felt too tight, and I want to be able to layer other things under this. For info, the given SA is ¼” which is what I ultimately sewed the sleeve seams with. I added darts in the shoulders to fix the gaping there – this is a feature I quite like in my ampersand version, but with the smaller SA, it’s made the neckline smaller and the darts don’t sit that well unfortunately. I think I used slightly more than a ½” SA to attach the neck binding, because I wanted it narrower. All this has meant the sweatshirt is approx. one size smaller than the cut size, which was my goal. A lazy version of sizing down. It is tighter than my others, but it’s very comfortable.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">It was all sewn on my sewing machine with the lightening bolt stitch and the edges were left raw although they were trimmed slightly to reduce bulk.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMlIvvLj01CMQyadx-NMINT71x2-2QLxmOrMi01SrjGK638J29q8DsJXaqgrxKkY-EeRM9eCxeMmZ_5wK-z4A6_gn8g_95tLqHEc36ndDb2omapJhyMfhfSIhQYhPM_XQLPp-t01sp92by/s1600/P2110665.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMlIvvLj01CMQyadx-NMINT71x2-2QLxmOrMi01SrjGK638J29q8DsJXaqgrxKkY-EeRM9eCxeMmZ_5wK-z4A6_gn8g_95tLqHEc36ndDb2omapJhyMfhfSIhQYhPM_XQLPp-t01sp92by/s1600/P2110665.JPG" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">And that was it! I’d forgotten how quick sweatshirts are to make, but I’d also forgotten how much I hate attaching neck/hemband and cuffs. Man, I detest attaching those things. I always feel like I need at least one extra pair of hands, and as always basted before sewing them properly. Kudos to anyone to can attach them directly with their overlockers. I have no idea how anyone could do that!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Having now worn this a few times there are a few things I want to go back and fix. The darts bug me, so need altering and actually I'm not happy with the narrower neckband at all. I think it was fine until I washed it, and the raw edges have since curled, which means the neckband just doesn't sit right. I think I will go back and cut off the neckband and attach a new one with the correct SA. None of this has stopped me wearing it non-stop though. It's cosier than my ampersand version, so better suited to the winter weather, plus I just love the colour!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHdvHQN_TuhZy-WlWy9vUY9eLGEVaPPUY46SKPlf7i7AyVWjD-2nzbw7BNelCLZoQSAwsmFv8jAgOurrPI2TFp1-X-AnWArBF7s0EFlO4PE31nN3C3qwAZMwAaKCW8AaTWf8SIPpnO5Hz/s1600/P2110566.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHdvHQN_TuhZy-WlWy9vUY9eLGEVaPPUY46SKPlf7i7AyVWjD-2nzbw7BNelCLZoQSAwsmFv8jAgOurrPI2TFp1-X-AnWArBF7s0EFlO4PE31nN3C3qwAZMwAaKCW8AaTWf8SIPpnO5Hz/s1600/P2110566.JPG" /></a></span></div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-76096955369758235552018-02-11T16:38:00.001+00:002019-02-05T14:18:27.001+00:00Completed: Safran JeansI have 4 posts written in drafts, but I just haven't managed to get photos of anything recently. I put that right today with a major blog photo shoot, photographing 5 things in one session! The photos aren't the best, but they'll do!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTAFzFUB7VZU3s8EUkp5jDd5U9oB9rBXuceWPJZ6I-BjcIZqjF-p9FtBeXJYPL1OKnN2n8xcE72zvWNdweml2m25-LgRLOwve4cRMIaj3mIZi-aikXamNWqryFgyf2V4KjacOgoD1On9zf/s1600/P2110576.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTAFzFUB7VZU3s8EUkp5jDd5U9oB9rBXuceWPJZ6I-BjcIZqjF-p9FtBeXJYPL1OKnN2n8xcE72zvWNdweml2m25-LgRLOwve4cRMIaj3mIZi-aikXamNWqryFgyf2V4KjacOgoD1On9zf/s1600/P2110576.JPG" /></a><br />
Let's jump ahead with this, the most recent of makes: <a href="http://blog.deer-and-doe.com/8462-new-pattern-safran/">Deer and Doe Safran Jeans</a>. My winter sewing has been practical but boring and this is no different. I am in desperate need of trousers for work. In recent years I've worn a lot more dresses and skirts during the winter, but this year I just haven't felt like dressing like that. For work, I've been living in my one pair of RTW black trousers, which are starting to suffer a bit. I had been planning to make a pair of black Gingers, when someone blogged about the Safrans. I had obviously seen them before, but this time around the welt pockets at the front caught my eye. I liked that they were a little less "jeansy", but equally would work as casual wear. To make them even less "jeansy", I made them in some stretch cotton twill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienSLulBme4iNWxeC4pUx3MmDoGIA_0-Kz4Uve_klfb9HwOMMerO-sH-FczzweSkvlRSLJ3TNK66TLpt8Hq06liuicT1YioT5Pd3ylqGnDiTEujuLLbuc1mzXhkcLQ-C2q6LpZwGmJ0ZSY/s1600/Safran.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienSLulBme4iNWxeC4pUx3MmDoGIA_0-Kz4Uve_klfb9HwOMMerO-sH-FczzweSkvlRSLJ3TNK66TLpt8Hq06liuicT1YioT5Pd3ylqGnDiTEujuLLbuc1mzXhkcLQ-C2q6LpZwGmJ0ZSY/s1600/Safran.PNG" /></a></div>
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I started these back at a #sewscottish meet up in November, when I sewed the whole front together, including fly and welt pockets and then they languished in the cupboard for ages afterwards until I had a day off in Jan that I could dedicate to fitting them. I initially had some reservations due to the fact that I am not the curvy shape that Deer and Doe appear to design for, but actually the fitting was very different to what I anticipated.<br />
<br />
First things first, I cut the size 38 grading up to the 40 at the waist as per the sizing on the pattern and the finished garment measurements. This was actually my first Deer and Doe pattern, and I found the instructions to be OK, definitely not for beginners but good enough with a bit of experience under your belt. I loved the welt pockets although my second is better as I had figured out what I was doing by then. I read through both the D&D and the Closet Case Files instructions for the fly (from the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern">Ginger jeans</a>, a pattern I already own) and went with the latter which felt clearer and more intuitive. This meant changing the construction order a bit, but I managed to figure it all out.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJ7A_XeSaLxyzsliHY0tdKEAThAefEXSzD8dYN3wP34ltqBQ-cesR3jY43AQ7F16rzlNphrYb5iTv9Jl8LCI9uXCWgZlPw7qxfNXr6aaMxYWyj5PKa08d30smHt55lHoJ4PPc3prWeYx-/s1600/P2110580.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJ7A_XeSaLxyzsliHY0tdKEAThAefEXSzD8dYN3wP34ltqBQ-cesR3jY43AQ7F16rzlNphrYb5iTv9Jl8LCI9uXCWgZlPw7qxfNXr6aaMxYWyj5PKa08d30smHt55lHoJ4PPc3prWeYx-/s1600/P2110580.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHlnuLFnj3KJdGklqDMlmJltJVfvE6VvHMYYAWkhXXGtZ3jN6jJYysA_J7jiMzw16GGoPM29FX_pfhQuSwpQi-llTj5lxVLuBsbKXpeCBSjiCa21h_OmeKdIGHGiNjnQ79BGPRQpXlHPd/s1600/P2110579.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHlnuLFnj3KJdGklqDMlmJltJVfvE6VvHMYYAWkhXXGtZ3jN6jJYysA_J7jiMzw16GGoPM29FX_pfhQuSwpQi-llTj5lxVLuBsbKXpeCBSjiCa21h_OmeKdIGHGiNjnQ79BGPRQpXlHPd/s1600/P2110579.JPG" /></a><br />
I basted the crotch and side seams and got down to fitting. There was quite a lot to fix, as it turns out. I had to take a huge amount out of the waist. In the end, I took 14cm (yep, that's 5.5") out of the waist in the back and side seams and I also added darts. The Safran doesn't have a yoke and isn't darted, instead relying on negative ease for a fit. I was sceptical of this at the start and I remain so. The pattern calls for fabric with 20% stretch, and mine had that, but there was no way I was going to get these to fit without adding darts, and I'm not the curviest of people (my waist is 28/29" and my hips are 36" for reference).<br />
<br />
I have pretty large calves and I have thighs, which is often an issue in RTW, and this pattern was no different. I let out the calves a bit at the side and inseams (not officially the correct way to do it - theoretically you should add more to the back and not change the front leg), which isn't perfect but has helped. I then moved onto the knees which had quite a lot of excess fabric gathering. I can't figure out if the knees is down to the fabric gathering because the trouser legs can't slide down over my giant calves, if it's to do with my knock knees, or if the pattern is just truly too big at the knees. In the end, I just took the side seams in a bit here (I have some really interesting S shaped side seams going on now) and called it a day. The knees still have some excess fabric, but by this point my fitting enthusiasm was waning somewhat.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRTkB0Hcte36ov_o5SrnhISGboBN6UfiFaEQ02JqMLympjf3lzvTKLUmht1VcYIQRp9omf-1xMA5q3eD-93ShyphenhyphenGwJYbivRFjis-9IlkgZsV_Hi5Z6uzIanxMS5DeejdipVOASV4WHqc96/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRTkB0Hcte36ov_o5SrnhISGboBN6UfiFaEQ02JqMLympjf3lzvTKLUmht1VcYIQRp9omf-1xMA5q3eD-93ShyphenhyphenGwJYbivRFjis-9IlkgZsV_Hi5Z6uzIanxMS5DeejdipVOASV4WHqc96/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out that side seam on the left, it's wandering about all over the place!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6q_KfyX3wDxWmCnvrQFEygGKOnAHyZoELYKv6oRco9NcUPaMR2GahlpqKeYibQmdIAmRGM_yn5mC8cLt_r3vnIjFI0lA_s8N_TYufXDPoJMjAVaOtVK8z4JxICvo_poW3KdsVwmJY-o-0/s1600/P2110575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6q_KfyX3wDxWmCnvrQFEygGKOnAHyZoELYKv6oRco9NcUPaMR2GahlpqKeYibQmdIAmRGM_yn5mC8cLt_r3vnIjFI0lA_s8N_TYufXDPoJMjAVaOtVK8z4JxICvo_poW3KdsVwmJY-o-0/s1600/P2110575.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the excess at the knees here. And a bit of pulling at the fly which I hadn't previously noticed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The crotch isn't too bad. There are some drag lines at the front which *may* indicate I could with scooping out the front crotch curve a bit, but it's not a biggie and with the fly already done I was limited here. The back has a lot of drag lines immediately under my bum and the legs feel very tight at the back of my thighs. Not sure what to do here, but by then I was just fed up of fitting. I can't see my back anyway and in black fabric the drag lines don't show up too much. Fitting fatigue is a thing, and actually now that I look at these photos, the back actually looks fine!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyp22ySQzOJpcm0B5of6rFBeaudZDRuLx6CFGMB9ty4ptRO0sEDWPPnlWpFo6aqxOr_5wKtP8scfYm45j7YcRpBkzjen2bCwjlzL19WlCPQ2osU1xOYC9n7d95bjR9OSovAIAbuSJHTP9n/s1600/P2110581.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyp22ySQzOJpcm0B5of6rFBeaudZDRuLx6CFGMB9ty4ptRO0sEDWPPnlWpFo6aqxOr_5wKtP8scfYm45j7YcRpBkzjen2bCwjlzL19WlCPQ2osU1xOYC9n7d95bjR9OSovAIAbuSJHTP9n/s1600/P2110581.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyzjR17D3Kjro0F7nqFMzcjbtHpy2Uu8d2p33B_QBwbP1Fgu-MVGf41s4KXKQc4j-7RMlJkZZfwjtrJRjMr8VlfxyY1T1SegW8mkFQCgDkpaWrrPvMV_IOGNlB20nlfgscM4njyP8R4oBD/s1600/P2110594.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyzjR17D3Kjro0F7nqFMzcjbtHpy2Uu8d2p33B_QBwbP1Fgu-MVGf41s4KXKQc4j-7RMlJkZZfwjtrJRjMr8VlfxyY1T1SegW8mkFQCgDkpaWrrPvMV_IOGNlB20nlfgscM4njyP8R4oBD/s1600/P2110594.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjM8Kb_t_nnN_BQ1AeqPu2vKgEX4Je8ptF0v1POnEJHvSrG3fQG_h0eHvQ07gJfJXiuopJr4vvmhh3qyROfyZsiCTVBYIBov1_nJeisdEqVgFK-b3XHJ7w7lAEFgadekXw7qa8X9G7XUGp/s1600/P2110595.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjM8Kb_t_nnN_BQ1AeqPu2vKgEX4Je8ptF0v1POnEJHvSrG3fQG_h0eHvQ07gJfJXiuopJr4vvmhh3qyROfyZsiCTVBYIBov1_nJeisdEqVgFK-b3XHJ7w7lAEFgadekXw7qa8X9G7XUGp/s1600/P2110595.JPG" /></a><br />
The waistband proved a challenge. For some reason I decided to fit without the waistband on, and when I subsequently tried to apply the same changes to the waistband it was far too small. At this point the jeans went back in the cupboard again and Instagram was duly consulted. After a bit of advice and a bit of distance, I went back to them. I suspect there are numerous reasons why the waistband didn't work. Firstly, the waist more than likely stretched out with all the trying on I was doing. Secondly, I totally forgot that I shifted the side seams on the jeans to counter all the excess that I'd taken out of the garment at the back, and I didn't do the same to the waistband. Thirdly, I was treating a curved waistband like a straight one and was taking the same out of the top as the bottom of the waistband. Trial and error and a couple of versions later and I had a waistband that fitted well enough.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqPG2zOO2GELDvQKA_JUH4_5XLgkzgTtDgtq3K1Wj-G5115eHsJ5gGwT3sDDbBenTvCdMCK9HzBps6nbu0SeRiY0Bcd5RMoIhcA7UQgQMOirgzpdJcbspZ4idJYSL8m7BO-WawG9ciGnn/s1600/P2110647.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqPG2zOO2GELDvQKA_JUH4_5XLgkzgTtDgtq3K1Wj-G5115eHsJ5gGwT3sDDbBenTvCdMCK9HzBps6nbu0SeRiY0Bcd5RMoIhcA7UQgQMOirgzpdJcbspZ4idJYSL8m7BO-WawG9ciGnn/s1600/P2110647.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCX2lvLACenyoqKv6D0-yZTugH92yMljDKkLyDMrLf7s-Ie95rGv3z5JETTcPqlFhwLGmmj5hH1o0KyUX6GhaUjTdI787L6LZqZS_tBfWxAXZVarbIVMwduMgmc0kCgCI9mOl99SdTqWk/s1600/P2110648.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCX2lvLACenyoqKv6D0-yZTugH92yMljDKkLyDMrLf7s-Ie95rGv3z5JETTcPqlFhwLGmmj5hH1o0KyUX6GhaUjTdI787L6LZqZS_tBfWxAXZVarbIVMwduMgmc0kCgCI9mOl99SdTqWk/s1600/P2110648.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZzMm6cR3TlFgb_Niwk8sKkZcsN6l3aJ-u8BumHWb6FEO8PuMCeUv_gbcNVztMZKbAWlaPCyixWoz2h95woZb-5ja3uzQfBfpvGXfXMGtms9bsIq46I1LJmYX5OkLuovTbsiTUfsAMiNt/s1600/P2110649.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZzMm6cR3TlFgb_Niwk8sKkZcsN6l3aJ-u8BumHWb6FEO8PuMCeUv_gbcNVztMZKbAWlaPCyixWoz2h95woZb-5ja3uzQfBfpvGXfXMGtms9bsIq46I1LJmYX5OkLuovTbsiTUfsAMiNt/s1600/P2110649.JPG" /></a><br />
I'm really happy with these. They are *far* from perfect but at least they fit on the waist, which RTW never, ever do. They are comfy. Not lounge on the sofa comfy, as the fabric doesn't quite stretch enough for that, but they are definitely comfy for sitting at a desk for long periods of time. The legs ride up over my calves and don't slide back down, and there is still loads of excess fabric at the knees, but I like them nonetheless. I love the welt pockets and am super proud of both them and the fly. I missed the blogger-memo about recommending a stretch woven for the pocket linings and just made them in a standard bird print cotton (from <a href="http://www.oranges-and-apples.com/">Franca</a>). This hasn't caused me any issues, but then again, the fabric's not stretching massively around my hips. Definitely one to consider if you are better endowed than I in that area. I made a mixture of version A and B: I omitted the belt loops, but kept the back pockets and cut them at ankle length to wear with ankle boots. Unfortunately the fabric is a fluff magnet, as twill always seems to be. It also feels a little rough against my skin. Not sure why. The fabric was one recommended on the D&D website and also came from France, from a seller called <a href="http://mamzellefourmi.com/">Mamzelle Fourni</a>, (they don't seem to have it any more).<br />
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I don't know that I'd rush to make this pattern again. I'd like to try the Ginger jeans next, just to see how the fit compares, however I would love to incorporate the welt pockets into a future pair of jeans, even if it ends up being a mash up of patterns. But I will make jeans again, and I'll wear the hell out of these Safrans in the meantime!<br />
<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-40456500920095065982018-01-02T14:48:00.001+00:002018-01-02T14:48:52.108+00:00New Years Resolutions - 2018<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">My New Year’s resolutions this year take the following form.
As always I started out with a big list, but I know that it’s most effective to keep them to a minimum. I am also steering clear of negative
resolutions – you know the ones, the things you aim to do because they will
make you “better”, like the current you is somehow lacking. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">So, here goes:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;">1.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Spend more time outside. This year I’d like to
spend more time in my garden. We weren’t able to do that much last year while
the building work went on, and my gardening has really taken a backseat to
sewing and child-rearing over the past 7 years. I’d like to return to
gardening, to get more joy from both the process and the result, but I’d also
just like to be outside more, whether that’s exercising, gardening, playing
with the boys, going for walks or just chilling. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;">2.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Prioritise exercise. I know I said I wasn’t
trying to self-improve, but I’m conscious that although I am thin and healthy,
I am not fit. I don’t consider myself a couch-potato by any stretch, but my
preferred activities do revolve around sitting, my job is desk bound, and I
drive to and from work. I’m also conscious that I am often tired, stressed and
anxious and I think (hope) that exercise will help with this. I also want to
set a good example for the kids, and to have the energy and fitness levels to
properly run around with them. Gardening will help, as will being outside
(apart from the chilling aspect), but I’d also like to make a concerted effort
to use the gym at work and maybe run/walk a bit more. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;">3.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Read more books. This doesn’t need further
explanation, does it?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;">4.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Socialise more. I feel like I hardly saw anyone
last year. The building work really took its toll on both our finances and our
time and energy. Now we have a shiny new kitchen, I want to entertain more, and
I want to be more proactive about arranging get-togethers with my friends. I also want to bear in mind that entertaining
doesn’t have to be a full on extravaganza. It’s about seeing people, not
dazzling them with fancy food. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">But what about the sewing resolutions? Well, I don’t have
any. I plan to continue sewing as often as I can and to blog as and when I want
to, and that’s what I do already. No changes. No revelations. No guilt about
the stash, no self-reproach about what I sew and for who and no pressure to sew
all the things. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">With that in mind, I have a number of things to photograph and blog that I sewed at the back end of the year, so watch this space!</span></div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-1145360551188741082017-09-24T15:00:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:09:48.289+00:00Giveaway - Crafts for Christmas, plus 2 for 1 offerHi! I hesitate to use the "C" word while it's still September, but apparently the most organised of us are already planning for it. I mean, of course, Christmas. If you are an organised person, you may like to know that Crafts for Christmas and Stitching, Sewing and Hobbycrafts is running from 26th-29th October at the SEC Glasgow and I have one pair of tickets to give away!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIyANO_8I-CK-GZDQydfNTgAJtAFGDukAPSSRnaEdz9jYG-J0YsOS_KBTLR5w6T7Vhs7qTHr8mIxclIygNc8_-IYKej1DqEwLVOzH_W5G24BK7eAeoDV8ankcxE2z3op_L9NtRnE56gqrk/s1600/CRAFT_XMAS_NEC_NOV14_241.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIyANO_8I-CK-GZDQydfNTgAJtAFGDukAPSSRnaEdz9jYG-J0YsOS_KBTLR5w6T7Vhs7qTHr8mIxclIygNc8_-IYKej1DqEwLVOzH_W5G24BK7eAeoDV8ankcxE2z3op_L9NtRnE56gqrk/s1600/CRAFT_XMAS_NEC_NOV14_241.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The show promises to bring together <b>150</b> exhibitors showcasing artisan, handcrafted gifts, supplies and festive inspiration for crafters. <span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;">Visitors to </span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><b>Crafts for Christmas </b></span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;">will get free entry to</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><b> Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts</b></span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"> providing a festive day packed with live music, food and drink, inspirational features, workshops and demonstrations. This is the ideal spot to get Christmas wrapped up early.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Crafts for Christmas</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"> is the perfect place to pick up beautiful, finished craft and gifts for friends, family and the home. It will bring together independent suppliers offering hundreds of exclusive handmade</span><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i></span><span style="font-size: small;">gifts and treats from jewellery to candles, handcrafted toys to handmade decorations, art, candles, ceramics, not forgetting delicious treats and gifts including farmhouse cheeses, specialist wines, handmade cakes and luxury chocolates.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"> is a mecca for hobbyists </span><span style="font-size: small;">from quilting queens to decoupage <span style="font-family: inherit;">demons. Visitors can stock up on everything needed to create a craft-filled Christmas.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">There will also be 16 inspirational hands-on <b>Workshops, Demonstrations</b> and<b> Make and Take </b>sessions giving visitors the chance to create something unique.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 15px;">Experts from craft associations, guilds and societies will be demonstrating the latest techniques including Japanese sewing, decoupage marbling, leather-craft and stained glass techniques, while visitors will have the chance to make their own fridge magnet, key ring, greeting cards, fun & stylish jewellery, Christmas decorations, flower arrangements and even knit and scarf without needles!</span> </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicE2dU3Bc308YQVGc05KIOiQKyB9a4_2z9OqAN1Yynn4T5_aRHAi9ta2e6PG86ErlFW_uKWEvkrVxth9-YX7FfaRFouDrN6KswVx7pQ2eW27Wp07icWYZLJt1GFQSNggUWMWYzzwVhKUVP/s1600/ICHF_CraftNEC_July17_0169.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicE2dU3Bc308YQVGc05KIOiQKyB9a4_2z9OqAN1Yynn4T5_aRHAi9ta2e6PG86ErlFW_uKWEvkrVxth9-YX7FfaRFouDrN6KswVx7pQ2eW27Wp07icWYZLJt1GFQSNggUWMWYzzwVhKUVP/s1600/ICHF_CraftNEC_July17_0169.jpg" /></a><br />
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<b style="color: black; font-size: medium;">To enter the giveaway</b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Leave a comment below by </span><b style="color: black; font-size: medium;">Sunday 1st October</b><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">. Shortly after I will pull a name out of a hat. The winner will receive both tickets. It's always more fun taking a friend to this type of thing. </span></div>
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<b>2 for 1 ticket offer</b></div>
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If you are not lucky enough to win, you can take advantage of a 2 for 1 offer I have instead. <span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">To claim 2 tickets for the price of 1 (£9) visit</span></span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></span><a href="http://ichfevents.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="font-size: 15px;" target="_blank"><span style="color: windowtext; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">ichfevents.co.uk</span></span></a><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> or call </span></span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">01425 277988 and use the code </span></span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><b>GL21 </b></span></span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">when placing your order. Advance tickets cost £9. Children under 16 go free when accompanied by an adult. </span></span></div>
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<b>Other important stuff</b><br />
<span style="color: #212121;">Location - SEC, Glasgow</span><br />
<span style="color: #212121;">Dates - 26th-29th October 201177, 10am-5pm (4.30pm Sunday 29th)</span><br />
<span style="color: #212121;">Tickets - Adults: £9 advance/£11 at the show; Seniors: £9 advance/£10 at the show. Accompanied under 16s go free. All advanced tickets need to be ordered by 5pm Mon 23rd October.</span><br />
<span style="color: #212121;">Contact - For tickets or more information call 01425 277 988 or visit </span><a href="http://www.ichfevents.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="font-size: 15px;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">www.ichfevents.co.uk</span></span></a><br />
<span style="color: #212121;">Facebook - Search "Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts" show</span><br />
<span style="color: #212121;">Twitter - @thecraftshows #stitchsewhobby</span><br />
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<span style="color: #212121;">Good luck! I'm just going to leave this last image here because, really,, I want to know what craft this is?!</span><br />
<span style="color: #212121;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBRhdYhaTJedymOA31cZOFBtDjpi_6pG8veMfeI9tm02X2iYGze9qZTWysVBYvIFuwyfVo70RrIc_1xrPLqmCtQw6P9TgCL4Q3iM_GN4ton9OyFb9JncyBaarGc0QUxxr2vDX6oyU2DS9/s1600/ICHF_CraftNEC_July17_0057.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBRhdYhaTJedymOA31cZOFBtDjpi_6pG8veMfeI9tm02X2iYGze9qZTWysVBYvIFuwyfVo70RrIc_1xrPLqmCtQw6P9TgCL4Q3iM_GN4ton9OyFb9JncyBaarGc0QUxxr2vDX6oyU2DS9/s1600/ICHF_CraftNEC_July17_0057.jpg" /></a></span></div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-5802436628391547902017-09-23T20:40:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:18:45.653+00:00Completed: Denim Pleated (Faux) Wrap SkirtI bought this fabric at the Edinburgh Knitting and Stitching show a while back to make Ginger jeans. I recently bought the pattern, cut it out and even made a pre-emptive flat pattern adjustment for my humungous calves,when I realised the fabric just wasn't right. It didn't have enough stretch, and I just wasn't convinced at all. Heather Lou does say on her sewalong that you can use lower stretch fabric but might need to size up, but I didn't want to waste the fabric and I have enough pairs of not-great fitting jeans already!<br />
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Luckily, I had a plan B. I just had to figure out how to execute it...<br />
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So, last year, I think, I found this image on Pinterest and it was love at first sight!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6NfveKFkZu9SL0V7F5aBGtudpo8BOpg0BEwPxzeqB_XA1KH4dKqtAStaVVTZ68gmRcatOl00fY2HH3t6QFDjoyNkFhQ4rNl4bXGcTfFdUP8L_Tn2TAHxc0KpYGpU1MH-CDwuPHgGfl4L/s1600/Pleated+denim+skirt.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6NfveKFkZu9SL0V7F5aBGtudpo8BOpg0BEwPxzeqB_XA1KH4dKqtAStaVVTZ68gmRcatOl00fY2HH3t6QFDjoyNkFhQ4rNl4bXGcTfFdUP8L_Tn2TAHxc0KpYGpU1MH-CDwuPHgGfl4L/s1600/Pleated+denim+skirt.PNG" /></a></div>
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Isn't this just fab?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXEPAzLsc2YXkSyfFed7d8Ou2owoE0XmMjvpLFr4j8adW2EChQbHJMahkxg06il0ZUMM2ph7s2UnhSXfVcWvlNWAkFjL6Xli94MAamxpSOfOzd5OC3wJZUy_WAm0LZmjcbAtcvxAvasI6/s1600/P9230577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXEPAzLsc2YXkSyfFed7d8Ou2owoE0XmMjvpLFr4j8adW2EChQbHJMahkxg06il0ZUMM2ph7s2UnhSXfVcWvlNWAkFjL6Xli94MAamxpSOfOzd5OC3wJZUy_WAm0LZmjcbAtcvxAvasI6/s1600/P9230577.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think I pulled it off!</td></tr>
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Obviously a fair bit of hacking was going to need to be done, but I figured that most of it would be relatively straightforward. First though, I had to find a base pattern. I considered a few options: <a href="https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/osaka">Seamwork Osaka</a>, which I actually own or <a href="http://www.sewdiy.com/shop/nita-wrap-skirt-pdf-pattern">Sew DIY Nita wrap skirt</a>, but I don't generally like wrap skirts and I wasn't overly taken with either of those options. Eventually I found a pattern on ebay for £2 (incl postage), which is actually from Prima magazine of all places. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZvl_ofwCQkY9OvYXPeQafH6Du9A8LU6gdE7950Sw4QWqTNRANvnfwmMDZXEcByk2lUQRl6_iDQQI2WegTgsOVu9QqcL4ARN_1IjAdLkoyRuBLFpouVVfkb6Dedfrw5icmJVxoLCkK30V/s1600/Prima+wrap+skirt.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="501" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZvl_ofwCQkY9OvYXPeQafH6Du9A8LU6gdE7950Sw4QWqTNRANvnfwmMDZXEcByk2lUQRl6_iDQQI2WegTgsOVu9QqcL4ARN_1IjAdLkoyRuBLFpouVVfkb6Dedfrw5icmJVxoLCkK30V/s320/Prima+wrap+skirt.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I thought view 2 had potential (second from left), but I think I actually ended up making the one to the far left. It's actually a fixed wrap skirt, i.e. a pencil skirt with a wrap over the top, which I actually liked. Edinburgh is a windy place! :)</div>
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First step was to muslin. I cut the second smallest size based on my measurements but ended taking it in considerably, particularly around the hips because I don't really have any. That done, I moved on to the hacking. I did one step at a time, checking each worked before I moved onto the next. And can I say, I loved the process? It was good fun trying to work out how to make things work, particularly on the pockets and the waistband. I'm not going to do a step by step on this, but if anyone is interested in any particular aspect, please let me know. I will caveat that by saying that I have no idea if I did things the "right" way. I just went with what seemed instinctive and practical at the time. So, what did I do?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4GlD8g6Q-_qKfxzGnExSY0wutmDqgYM5L-iT5uESRpX-590XpbI25Ynkuig6fsUXCxDPlc9Ri74C2Wh3kbAmVe_PC_8Ukp00h6n-_qrDfeU-vvxLaj4sn5tgvW9aplyhyU4VgZkwS9XU-/s1600/P9230555.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4GlD8g6Q-_qKfxzGnExSY0wutmDqgYM5L-iT5uESRpX-590XpbI25Ynkuig6fsUXCxDPlc9Ri74C2Wh3kbAmVe_PC_8Ukp00h6n-_qrDfeU-vvxLaj4sn5tgvW9aplyhyU4VgZkwS9XU-/s1600/P9230555.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1pFT2KoPA_GssGn9kf7DNuYhI4q_IC6hA1hYZVdlUzlPB5cuU7Zs_Ipe9iwzDdmRStVIFjOwlCxA0K20nN8shLoPWAcahK9EiOO_Pie2e1puoBNZJrmNrzovfrQ5nLO4Y1beuD3VIjvH/s1600/P9230554.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1pFT2KoPA_GssGn9kf7DNuYhI4q_IC6hA1hYZVdlUzlPB5cuU7Zs_Ipe9iwzDdmRStVIFjOwlCxA0K20nN8shLoPWAcahK9EiOO_Pie2e1puoBNZJrmNrzovfrQ5nLO4Y1beuD3VIjvH/s1600/P9230554.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGw-B2mZbIF_2-yj0DnSw6vgXkL2YVKRqOSsc6QYai7FDgvQfNLX1KairbcYdW5ShCW9BKJC6L2WOAFDnmXNNe-dZClBPf9RSFPVBoTp1gZXbeNsXXgISg2k8RBQtf7LRgsqPD__qWk9ds/s1600/P9230566.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGw-B2mZbIF_2-yj0DnSw6vgXkL2YVKRqOSsc6QYai7FDgvQfNLX1KairbcYdW5ShCW9BKJC6L2WOAFDnmXNNe-dZClBPf9RSFPVBoTp1gZXbeNsXXgISg2k8RBQtf7LRgsqPD__qWk9ds/s1600/P9230566.JPG" /></a></div>
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Firstly, I added the pleats to the wrap overlay. I used <a href="http://www.anna-zoe.net/skinny-and-pleated-hampshire-trousers/">this tutorial</a>, which is for trousers but it's exactly the same principal. I find it hard to visualise the change from 2D to 3D, so I used a spare bit of fabric and manipulated it to what I wanted visually, and from that I worked out how large to make the pleats and where to place them. I made 3 pleats which slightly overlap each other. The plan was to have the first pleat slightly overlapping the pocket opening, but that never really happened. The pleats were each approx 2cm wide. I love how the pleats look at the top, but as always with pleats, I have a bit too much volume at the bottom. You can see it in the photo below. I suspect here it's because the fabric has zero drape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBES87SG5kKDjkdzdLN6C3wqZ0aM41YE9FXUE9TSd8Kqo82d0zTFtOPThIgaFOT7q9PQ7pVKJ6akRCO1wpIWOBl4z35d8MUreX3eUmtfTm135KwGJGco7yXba7H-GpWn34B3UjVRMUWePO/s1600/P9230531.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBES87SG5kKDjkdzdLN6C3wqZ0aM41YE9FXUE9TSd8Kqo82d0zTFtOPThIgaFOT7q9PQ7pVKJ6akRCO1wpIWOBl4z35d8MUreX3eUmtfTm135KwGJGco7yXba7H-GpWn34B3UjVRMUWePO/s1600/P9230531.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fK_pEYXXgUmEsW4ajaEaza18S8Y68gNEe2xH8XphaUyMlJMkZYHMENkRI6BvA0_yKb76KwbuMBn-KBXyeXxy8MbdVaMtt2zXeWlXZHvze0eah_aBudnJ0YEHBQOt9KcJ0axEinLnJMDt/s1600/P9230550.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fK_pEYXXgUmEsW4ajaEaza18S8Y68gNEe2xH8XphaUyMlJMkZYHMENkRI6BvA0_yKb76KwbuMBn-KBXyeXxy8MbdVaMtt2zXeWlXZHvze0eah_aBudnJ0YEHBQOt9KcJ0axEinLnJMDt/s1600/P9230550.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOz_ZPYOOdmx1r1f5wS3rCUNJJlFKqp0jOtqsCBXpoU6ktYHmyOYNbK7MSwE2LF6tMwKnZIT0WuyGLVELUHenv0G4lEaUepr0fmklnBOpYZHeYv4cGfn3Qk3IQDn235k7FvFjXiE77tzDT/s1600/P9230558.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOz_ZPYOOdmx1r1f5wS3rCUNJJlFKqp0jOtqsCBXpoU6ktYHmyOYNbK7MSwE2LF6tMwKnZIT0WuyGLVELUHenv0G4lEaUepr0fmklnBOpYZHeYv4cGfn3Qk3IQDn235k7FvFjXiE77tzDT/s1600/P9230558.JPG" /></a></div>
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That done, I turned my attention to the pockets. I used the Kelly Skirt pattern for the pockets as I really like the shape. What was tricky was that the wrap overlay also has a pocket, but since there are 2 layers of fabric on that side, I couldn't work out how best to make it work without adding lots of bulk. In the end, I did away with the pocket lining and instead sewed the pocket facing directly onto the underlayer of the skirt. I probably overthought this, TBH, but it works OK and I kind of like the idea of having the wrap overlay cut away to expose the layer underneath, albeit that they are made of the same fabric, so you can't really tell...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwUS9ZGzibwG0ZBDx6pyCl1PZT8KANnI-yrLqSVr9RV4dA-Bb7qMCKFGXLDhEx0EjVWLCRudEvc7yAeebG3fkLReY253z_x41YmZcyoK1xEk6KHFfZ0CxD3JnwQQGGapSxkezl-gGJjgv/s1600/P9230498.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwUS9ZGzibwG0ZBDx6pyCl1PZT8KANnI-yrLqSVr9RV4dA-Bb7qMCKFGXLDhEx0EjVWLCRudEvc7yAeebG3fkLReY253z_x41YmZcyoK1xEk6KHFfZ0CxD3JnwQQGGapSxkezl-gGJjgv/s1600/P9230498.JPG" /></a></div>
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Finally, we have the waistband. The original pattern doesn't have a waistband, but I love the detail on the inspiration post where the wrap appears to wrap over the top of the waistband at the front. Can you see it?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fCo03_06jE3cEn1hwSsBen8YxuHAKal5Al7MJGhHlejXs00CxjvSrIX_8j_Vb8UXy4DEzCIGZXWd1hE7UVM_AxywJEnWYOmhbMzmc67Cxq0m1ATKa1jwLYLxScSFAFkDLCcIn4DwrTnd/s1600/detail.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="93" data-original-width="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fCo03_06jE3cEn1hwSsBen8YxuHAKal5Al7MJGhHlejXs00CxjvSrIX_8j_Vb8UXy4DEzCIGZXWd1hE7UVM_AxywJEnWYOmhbMzmc67Cxq0m1ATKa1jwLYLxScSFAFkDLCcIn4DwrTnd/s1600/detail.PNG" /></a></div>
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I really wanted to replicate that, and I spent quite a bit of time thinking about how best to execute it. In the end, I figured I'd do a faced waistband, would extend the wrap overlay at the top and then would sandwich the overlay in between the waistband and the facing. It seems simple, but I couldn't figure out in my head how to actually sew that. Oh, and I had to draft a waistband first. I remember reading somewhere (no idea where, sorry) that someone had flipped a facing up to make a curved waistband, so I gave that a try. It took a bit of finangling, but I was able to make it work well enough. I wasn't sure how to go about drafting a curved waistband from scratch, so this seemed like a reasonable compromise.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB84KDZkrzkfvPb8jYtK8D8Xtui5RH187fOagSj7wifJwC2piJV0GgfdmGWhw6NfmXGny-YWQmGtiDCkJfoHGQfU2kwuhxjAVV4XtRdajEGHLsLz9eYbPh_RXnmqfrS9_p4QAXHgjgYB2c/s1600/P9230495.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB84KDZkrzkfvPb8jYtK8D8Xtui5RH187fOagSj7wifJwC2piJV0GgfdmGWhw6NfmXGny-YWQmGtiDCkJfoHGQfU2kwuhxjAVV4XtRdajEGHLsLz9eYbPh_RXnmqfrS9_p4QAXHgjgYB2c/s1600/P9230495.JPG" /></a><br />
There was a bit of a struggle top stitching the waistband, given the overlay, so I just stitched as far as I could from either side. This has left a bit of a gap, which I still need to handstitch, which you can see below.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCLVYO6cWZXhWyJ-7SwRqSyORTsYsk3O1cZI53ZCTloP3mHo-u6fy2WZCmDYWZiWoFLOe3OoEVgmKXwtFPoMtE3e78gyzwvUkVnByHKAPC2rwOXiqLpRkuBRQnJ8LQVIftCfH9ZtSvHR4/s1600/P9230496.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCLVYO6cWZXhWyJ-7SwRqSyORTsYsk3O1cZI53ZCTloP3mHo-u6fy2WZCmDYWZiWoFLOe3OoEVgmKXwtFPoMtE3e78gyzwvUkVnByHKAPC2rwOXiqLpRkuBRQnJ8LQVIftCfH9ZtSvHR4/s1600/P9230496.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhmtF720iCr7u6wit7GgmroAbaDQWQ_uCvM6XlyGlK4DGboATxT77Beu21CflBZES_K4XG3tDZxVuk_Wf6GBZUEyPWcvkT8DZQx_mp00Y-WXx6aWaq0LnHf_AkLo4BzU-rCdVJu4UpLBN/s1600/P9230502.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhmtF720iCr7u6wit7GgmroAbaDQWQ_uCvM6XlyGlK4DGboATxT77Beu21CflBZES_K4XG3tDZxVuk_Wf6GBZUEyPWcvkT8DZQx_mp00Y-WXx6aWaq0LnHf_AkLo4BzU-rCdVJu4UpLBN/s1600/P9230502.JPG" /></a><br />
Other amendments were to reduce the hem allowance from 2.5cm to a far narrower 1cm, which mirrors the inspiration photo and feels right on denim, and to add the side split, which I wasn't going to bother with, but I kind of need due to the pencil skirt and you know, mobility.<br />
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The skirt fastens with an invisible zip at the back. I hadn't done one for a while, but this went in perfectly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-G4dtPSDD24grVDhWlih8ASxQWRuJb3t9GnZ7Zotm6ZFBP7lkj8jh-14JJhOYi9PhfUeuBNX9BolYBxYS1oO8SZwoHqTlPtkUGso58nr17yDjYZK799om7kKuW3EqYjSRoQqFJO_dMvlC/s1600/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-G4dtPSDD24grVDhWlih8ASxQWRuJb3t9GnZ7Zotm6ZFBP7lkj8jh-14JJhOYi9PhfUeuBNX9BolYBxYS1oO8SZwoHqTlPtkUGso58nr17yDjYZK799om7kKuW3EqYjSRoQqFJO_dMvlC/s1600/Capture.JPG" /></a></div>
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I'm really pleased with the final skirt. It's not quite perfect. I wasn't too sure why, but Paul nailed it when he said it was like new jeans. I think the denim just needs broken in a bit. Hopefully a couple of washes will rough it up a bit, but I might take a bit of sandpaper to the hems and pocket edges too. I don't really like my denim too clean, if you know what I mean?<br />
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Baby Boy's verdict? "I like it better" "Better than what?" I asked. "Than a cow" he responded. On that note, I'll leave you with a few more photos.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGI3-mNNz5WIUSedymHcc0oahU-AAy0Z4_l7KC3og2msnEo68TQ_wCjXpp7bDC6gd2zPOOdipuiAE-00armp-EvI0H0AN64er7WGF_xW8mQFUz26l3w8V8JJHNGqDquFAeISZy5bBBoWnZ/s1600/P9230547.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGI3-mNNz5WIUSedymHcc0oahU-AAy0Z4_l7KC3og2msnEo68TQ_wCjXpp7bDC6gd2zPOOdipuiAE-00armp-EvI0H0AN64er7WGF_xW8mQFUz26l3w8V8JJHNGqDquFAeISZy5bBBoWnZ/s1600/P9230547.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7upjkXQ1fZ8oH2a6wIUQPT2rIkYRXdXwFBa9639nO_iJCcCimDCiw1wJ1XLyAn-6K3jDqrd_4WZm3pewCrx4O3oOF9nAAglmGw9NWfiEpdEjWSAGaPtkHo96JAH8_Kz5MFHtUkhJBh_qw/s1600/P9230546.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7upjkXQ1fZ8oH2a6wIUQPT2rIkYRXdXwFBa9639nO_iJCcCimDCiw1wJ1XLyAn-6K3jDqrd_4WZm3pewCrx4O3oOF9nAAglmGw9NWfiEpdEjWSAGaPtkHo96JAH8_Kz5MFHtUkhJBh_qw/s1600/P9230546.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM9cW2AJ2kfiL58BuxQ-Q4Zsp_GsJcwL_QluVqc2_zSSXlCeTShEttbxNOdynVj_JHNPfGKtIJCNRR8bmAtqHX1DAM8eGAV_Ek8dzZJvfxAMHzGa7q5okEsV_59qpj1KVBlFO1Zo6Q34VV/s1600/P9230523.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM9cW2AJ2kfiL58BuxQ-Q4Zsp_GsJcwL_QluVqc2_zSSXlCeTShEttbxNOdynVj_JHNPfGKtIJCNRR8bmAtqHX1DAM8eGAV_Ek8dzZJvfxAMHzGa7q5okEsV_59qpj1KVBlFO1Zo6Q34VV/s1600/P9230523.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8Gm6em0uqCGbcdFNQlYrq79wktwIOTFw-KZFkpaBoXRUJeBGTR4lgOTsEDsjzdxZZAuZ3cZWch3CKcQpy4ZMX_oaJ2CM__JncKRVSBzIUlj43TthTd-vWOF_8wynAnRzrcRatnmGLklV/s1600/P9230541.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8Gm6em0uqCGbcdFNQlYrq79wktwIOTFw-KZFkpaBoXRUJeBGTR4lgOTsEDsjzdxZZAuZ3cZWch3CKcQpy4ZMX_oaJ2CM__JncKRVSBzIUlj43TthTd-vWOF_8wynAnRzrcRatnmGLklV/s1600/P9230541.JPG" /></a><br />
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<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-92058778143196875322017-08-13T22:10:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:15:54.248+00:00Completed: Sointu Kimono TeeThis was one of those fabrics that you fall in love with, think about all day every day, then cave in and buy. Only once it arrives you realise you have absolutely no idea what to make with it. It's a viscose, but not a challis, more of a medium weight, which would make it suitable for a dress, but it's still a little transparent and I'm not a light coloured dress person. So into the stash it went.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikk-U9NkDS9iv7qVkaySVJxEaxk_QS0bZX62emTwxa2w2X0b20I_lmb5_JcjyUbgeZ52R5X47-S3z4tppL1jR8TGY4t8UBIXMWuKfHrDNi2V1gc3YI3jqIY8esWfz5BIWrQHLFmx16eIKX/s1600/P8120504.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikk-U9NkDS9iv7qVkaySVJxEaxk_QS0bZX62emTwxa2w2X0b20I_lmb5_JcjyUbgeZ52R5X47-S3z4tppL1jR8TGY4t8UBIXMWuKfHrDNi2V1gc3YI3jqIY8esWfz5BIWrQHLFmx16eIKX/s1600/P8120504.JPG" /></a></div>
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I had a few ideas - there is a whole "window pane check" period in my <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/grosgraingreen/sewing-inspiration/">Sewing Inspiration Pinterest board</a>, and came across <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/214484000984532934/">this Madewell top</a>, which I really love, but then I discovered the <a href="https://www.namedclothing.com/shop/sointu-kimono-tee/">Named Sointu tee</a> and a plan was born. This was all some time ago, and it wasn't until more recently that I realised the pattern was designed for stable knits, not drapey wovens!</div>
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However, kimonos are made in drapey wovens, and the pattern has lots of ease, and if you Google Image (that's a verb, right?) the pattern, you will see that loads of people have made it in wovens, so all good. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQS3QVCQGIuD05waKTM5yR-_hUOGio2XlEf5iHay0ChLyk9xl-DpA80v22wGRQ47snSNFW5VycLXKtknNPRcfTyx6bsPHeHr38oOCsLH7M6A1dSSdzXUO85rNKN36I9jlvO7hk0aJgbghm/s1600/P8120486.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQS3QVCQGIuD05waKTM5yR-_hUOGio2XlEf5iHay0ChLyk9xl-DpA80v22wGRQ47snSNFW5VycLXKtknNPRcfTyx6bsPHeHr38oOCsLH7M6A1dSSdzXUO85rNKN36I9jlvO7hk0aJgbghm/s1600/P8120486.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegDui7mwpPNfVVQjFlZJazwUUPijG5GtV_jBff4gg39siLD6SsREX9deiyZYAwMw4j2n2G2z-EzO_-DHBCF1DlAUWRH6yWRFnEw0qpfcv6rU1pXKx75UOY9qiDV2COaRTD7Qbu7O1Hz9X/s1600/P8120489.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegDui7mwpPNfVVQjFlZJazwUUPijG5GtV_jBff4gg39siLD6SsREX9deiyZYAwMw4j2n2G2z-EzO_-DHBCF1DlAUWRH6yWRFnEw0qpfcv6rU1pXKx75UOY9qiDV2COaRTD7Qbu7O1Hz9X/s1600/P8120489.JPG" /></a></div>
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I whipped this top up in a couple of nights. It would have taken less time if I hadn't had to pattern match and cut flat. After the first night, when I had sewn the front and back together and added the belt loops, I HATED it! Even taking into account that it was meant to be belted, it just looked awful. Massive, too baggy, shapeless and dull. Even though I'd had this pattern and fabric matched in my head for a while, I'd had a last minute wobble about whether the pairing would work, and at this stage I started to think I should have listened to my gut. However, after a night off, I went back to it. I ignored the given construction order and made the belt first, thinking that I'd try it with that before investing any more time in finishing it off. I tried it on with the belt and it just worked! It still wasn't perfect though - cutting off the belt loops helped with that. I found them to be clunky and too low and they just looked wrong. I figured that I could go back and make thread chain loops if I needed them (like I did for my Sway dress), but having worn the top once I don't find I need them. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hy8qIausyN7S8wyudZZfJ0dbgc-LNBNZYuB6TFVsyjbvyTZ2TfA5Ebqv7jFItMraZ1xovTYq2p_luV2hyphenhyphenCg2_vS76Oh85W_jgMNpAL1dFVZrWdtJ50cmbpTrlZgJZqDZLF7EIMMOdcsX/s1600/P8120500.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hy8qIausyN7S8wyudZZfJ0dbgc-LNBNZYuB6TFVsyjbvyTZ2TfA5Ebqv7jFItMraZ1xovTYq2p_luV2hyphenhyphenCg2_vS76Oh85W_jgMNpAL1dFVZrWdtJ50cmbpTrlZgJZqDZLF7EIMMOdcsX/s1600/P8120500.JPG" /></a></div>
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I think other than the fabric and the belt loops, I made the rest as per the instructions. Oh no, there were a couple of other things. I took a slightly longer hem, so I could do a double turn - the instructions have you overlock the raw edge and turn once. Fine for a knit, but not great on a woven, IMO. So, my version is about 1cm shorter than drafted. And I cut the sleeve bands on the bias, because it was going to be impossible to pattern match them. The sleeve band has no shoulder seam, so it was never going to match up at both front and back. I like it with the bias detail, and kind of wish I'd made the belt on the bias too now. I think it's a nice contrast. </div>
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But otherwise, as per instructions. ;)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYP2ecjXMD_E3yR63fzQPvLvpvjpQT6hDnrfCyswEeAIvziJRbhxkPcm2OdtuZY8EvWo_jU3P4vGlPGYOY9NqY5H6E6b97INdpWb57dJ1sn7dQvcDcDSB3lVh18_5Fu8aubugUo0uj1tA2/s1600/P8120506.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYP2ecjXMD_E3yR63fzQPvLvpvjpQT6hDnrfCyswEeAIvziJRbhxkPcm2OdtuZY8EvWo_jU3P4vGlPGYOY9NqY5H6E6b97INdpWb57dJ1sn7dQvcDcDSB3lVh18_5Fu8aubugUo0uj1tA2/s1600/P8120506.JPG" /></a></div>
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I think this is a fabulous pattern, and it's deceptively simple. I wore it to meet a friend for dinner and Festival shows last night, and she commented that it must have been quite challenging to make - and she sews (albeit not clothes). But it's such a simple shape under that very long belt (designed to be worn wrapped around twice). The rounded v neck is a little tricky to get neat, as it's finished with bias binding, but perseverance gets there. I would suggest stay stitching the neckline though, if you do use a woven in this pattern. The instructions don't suggest it, but it's worth doing.</div>
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But the sign of a good pattern is how many more versions you immediately start planning, isn't it? I think this would be absolutely perfect in silk and lengthened to dress version. I'd also like to try it in a knit. I think it could be a great basic in a solid colour, but could be amazing in a really bold print - imagine a large scale floral on a dark background, or a watercolour type print? It's a bit of distinctive shape to be a true basic, and there is a lot of volume going on, so you need to think about what to balance that out with (it's far better with skinny jeans, than the straight leg ones I am wearing in these photos, for instance) but I think there is definitely room for another version or 3 in my stash!<br />
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Also: I had my hair cut! Not sure I love it, but time will tell. </div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-43091804308175924962017-07-25T20:30:00.001+01:002019-02-05T14:18:56.024+00:00Completed: Broderie Anglais Kalle ShirtUsually for me, I start with the pattern. I find a pattern and then I am pretty quick to visualise the fabric that I want. Doesn't mean I always find it of course. This time, however it was the fabric that drew me in. I spotted this geometric broderie anglais on <a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/">Fabric Godmother'</a>s IG feed (seems to be out of stock, sorry!), and instantly knew it needed to be a blouse. A boxy, short sleeved blouse. I perused patterns, and initially fancied the <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/29-melilot-shirt-pattern.html">Deer & Doe Melilot blouse</a>, but it was a bit too fitted for my liking. I had initially dismissed the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern">Closet Case Files Kalle</a> as being too cropped, but someone else lengthened it and the penny dropped! I am not always the smartest cookie!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXWbtiiwtpBCOgRRdbfAqrxdMSRNhLgOoYSKDj_I-KGgG8cRl2n43BcBkbS-FXOgQLK3YcvHZbW86ilo4d22kp3aKkq2k5P5ZH5MpowZZHzZWVOIvfYbdTDobYs5imPg8C6Nize5Q7B0GN/s1600/IMG_9452.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXWbtiiwtpBCOgRRdbfAqrxdMSRNhLgOoYSKDj_I-KGgG8cRl2n43BcBkbS-FXOgQLK3YcvHZbW86ilo4d22kp3aKkq2k5P5ZH5MpowZZHzZWVOIvfYbdTDobYs5imPg8C6Nize5Q7B0GN/s1600/IMG_9452.JPG" /></a></div>
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This was my first Closet Case Files pattern and I really enjoyed making it. Having said that, it wasn't a breeze. I found the instructions to be inconsistent. In general they were good. The instructions for both the collar and the yoke were excellent, but there were others, such as the hidden placket and the sleeve cuffs that I found lacking and somewhat confusing. There is a sewalong, which I used for the cuffs and which was very clear, so all good in the end. I bought the Ginger jeans pattern at the same time, so we'll see how we get on with them. Feedback is that the instructions for them are excellent.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguq_ZISLem6oGRI_R8M5LIkkwzpM2ptp7Hc3JYggMv88zMcxMjZS_pjgHFBxUUv5zXOYz5_hp0quGl8xfLRCpd8dFxhwSigbjOfdpEkYY3ZskVZ85hCv2e8woWBZSgnA8yRMykHyyRz-4m/s1600/P7230467.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguq_ZISLem6oGRI_R8M5LIkkwzpM2ptp7Hc3JYggMv88zMcxMjZS_pjgHFBxUUv5zXOYz5_hp0quGl8xfLRCpd8dFxhwSigbjOfdpEkYY3ZskVZ85hCv2e8woWBZSgnA8yRMykHyyRz-4m/s1600/P7230467.JPG" /></a></div>
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I really like the pattern, which I think is well drafted and goes together very well. As I said, I found the instructions for both collar and yoke to be really comprehensive and clear. The collar uses the universally exhalted "<a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html">Andrea's method</a>" and the yoke is burritoed, which is possibly one of my favourite sewing methods. Since they are the scary bits of shirt making, that really helped. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3EY0G3GVUj7qLIbX4v_biHMyU7Eu8nu86Se295xqvTvAWloNkGESO2A7QaSqFIPvleOuzV2E1m-RsnyWiuouusdi0crOII_kwFafOqLE70gcT82FYR6OqGnOnCDwrlTsYTcXup2uEqsHX/s1600/P7230468.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3EY0G3GVUj7qLIbX4v_biHMyU7Eu8nu86Se295xqvTvAWloNkGESO2A7QaSqFIPvleOuzV2E1m-RsnyWiuouusdi0crOII_kwFafOqLE70gcT82FYR6OqGnOnCDwrlTsYTcXup2uEqsHX/s1600/P7230468.JPG" /></a></div>
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As mentioned, as drafted I thought the cropped version of the shirt was a little too short for comfort, so I added 5cm to the length. If you do this, remember to also lengthen the button band/placket. This gives me a nice length that sits at high hip - short enough to look deliberately cropped, but I am in no danger of flashing my tummy. I chose the "proper" collar as I'm not a fan of band collars, and the hidden placket. I had planned to also use the hem facing, which I really like, but it didn't seem right for this fabric. Due to the exaggerated curves of the hem, I faced it with bias binding - not the given pattern piece for the shirt dress, instead I just made bias binding as usual. I then encountered a couple of problems - the SA was less than the drafted 5/8" which didn't work at the side seams, and the bias binding was just too bulky, affecting the way the shirt hang. In the end I fixed it, by not double folding the bias when I turned it under. I'm really not explaining myself well but there is a raw edge on the inside, as I chose not to turn it under. With regards to the side seams, I just fudged it. The finish works well. In theory the binding shouldn't fray as it's cut on the bias. We will see.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bias facing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hidden placket</td></tr>
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Oh yes, and I actually chose the inverted pleat, but ended up sewing my front pieces on back to front and only realised after I'd burritoed the yoke thus after the point of no return. Due to the button band positioning, it made sense to keep the front right way out and make the back the wrong side. There really isn't much difference from the point of view of the fabric, but it's annoying because I had thought about the placement of the embroidery and holes when cutting and had deliberately offset the underside of the yoke so the holes would not align, so now the embroidery is not centred on the yoke. No one normal will notice, but still. </div>
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Other changes? As I couldn't use iron on interfacing (the glue would have shown through the "holes" in the fabric), I interfaced with white poly/cotton from my stash, which I basted on. I also used this for the bias binding. And the shirt only has 4 buttons. With multiple layers, and also the embroidery adding bulk, I just could not get the collar stand under my button hole foot. I know it's trendy but i doubt I'd do up the top button anyway, so have gone without. The white buttons were in my button jar and are recycled from something else. And I accidentally did horizontal buttonholes, which I didn't realise were wrong until I tried to button it up! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmpmglJdg0otlDe5ELZ1qtixb9hyphenhyphenaYS6rWsp8revhv_n4UVcxIF-N7aJgWkelk6R1FJqNZpQEGZ8VqmMd6JO0OyMhT01qT2u27M6ya0YNOsC0sbRcMJpyeBTPmd6UyvGX4OrJPFgaoeIK/s1600/P7230464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmpmglJdg0otlDe5ELZ1qtixb9hyphenhyphenaYS6rWsp8revhv_n4UVcxIF-N7aJgWkelk6R1FJqNZpQEGZ8VqmMd6JO0OyMhT01qT2u27M6ya0YNOsC0sbRcMJpyeBTPmd6UyvGX4OrJPFgaoeIK/s1600/P7230464.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modelling support. Also: this is my new kitchen. Still not finished.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYM3lbQfMn7xsvaAHaLkwtFQAydw4dEW8fo8hBhhF_CflPNIxsj81l9deWzYwCOOqGuemBZnBF6CNqQk4PCg4Qi5q75c-ZyS5WwgNS9C9V4zuDF49WqPj8kES1YgHNM_xYT4I2M7zNE8U/s1600/P7230466.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYM3lbQfMn7xsvaAHaLkwtFQAydw4dEW8fo8hBhhF_CflPNIxsj81l9deWzYwCOOqGuemBZnBF6CNqQk4PCg4Qi5q75c-ZyS5WwgNS9C9V4zuDF49WqPj8kES1YgHNM_xYT4I2M7zNE8U/s1600/P7230466.JPG" /></a></div>
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I made a good portion of this at a mini Blogger meet up organised by <a href="http://www.oranges-and-apples.com/">Franca</a>. It was only the pair of us, plus <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jens.ks/?hl=en">Jen </a>and <a href="http://www.kestrelmakes.com/">Kerry</a>, but <a href="http://dollyclackett.blogspot.co.uk/">Roisin </a>was in Edinburgh for the weekend and popped in to say hello. It was lovely to meet her. She even got to witness my parallel parking skillz!</div>
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So, yes, delighted with this. I really, really love it. I'm not normally someone who wears white, and I did consider dying the fabric, but I think the white looks really fresh, as long as I have no spillages. So far so good on that front. By keeping the broderie unlined I have the option to wear different coloured camis underneath, which changes it up a biit, or possibly to wear just a bra if I'm feeling brave (and warm) enough? Ha ha!</div>
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Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-68453742548247653462017-07-17T09:00:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:19:07.917+00:00Handmade Holiday Part 4The last part! You can find parts 1, 2 and 3 by clicking on the numbers.<br />
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I am not a maxi dress person. I think they look lovely, but I never really got them. I had no need for one. But, then I came across this <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/maxi-dress-052017">Burdastyle pattern</a>, in <a href="http://blog.fehrtrade.com/magazine/4055/burda-magazine-may-2017/">Melissa's May Burda review here</a>, and I found myself coming up with all sorts of reasons why I needed a maxi dress for my holiday: if we wanted to visit the Blue Mosque in Istanbul I'd need my legs covered (my head glossed over the fact that I'd also need my head and arms covered too); what if people dressed up for dinner in the all-inclusive resort - wouldn't a maxi beautifully bridge that divide between casual and dressy? Plus, if I hated it, I could always cut it to midi or shorter.<br />
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I managed to shoe-horn it in, but only after all the other items were finished and only on the proviso that I finished it BEFORE the week before we went. I started and finished it on the Monday. We left on Friday morning.<br />
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So, although the pattern is in the magazine it's also online. Not sure I would have bought it on the strength of the line drawings, but for once Burda's styling made my heart leap! My experience in making this dress reminded me why I avoid Burdastyle. I'm not going to go on a rant, because we've all made Burda patterns and all know their flaws. At least I didn't have to trace it.<br />
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The fabric is bamboo jersey, from Edinburgh Fabrics, which I thought would nice and light and breathable. Actually the dress uses so much fabric it weighs a ton, and was only suited to the cooler evenings. The pattern as drafted actually has an outer dress with an inner layer much like a tank. I'm not clear why, other than to support the outer layer maybe, but I skipped it anyway. I also skipped the neck and armhole bands, because it was quicker and easier to just turn once and stitch. The fabric requirements given by the pattern are woefully inadequate. I mean seriously inadequate. I bought the recommended length of 2.2m, and - bearing in mind I didn't cut the bands or the inner tank thingy - I had to seam the front piece because there was absolutely no way I was going to get those pattern pieces on the fabric otherwise. I don't actually mind the seam at all, so no biggie, but still!<br />
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The dress itself is a straightforward tank shape from the front, with a slightly cocoon shaped skirt but the back has all the drama with a sort of cape-like drapey bit hanging off the shoulders (excellent description, Helen). The instructions were clear as mud, so the construction was a bit of a head-fuck, but I got there in the end.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see how the back neck sags under the weight of the fabric here</td></tr>
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Not sure if it was a drafting error, or if I stretched out the armholes when sewing, but the armscyes were ridiculously large. It's possibly a bit of both. I think I ended up removing about 20cm from each (yes, really!), tapering it down the side seams. Because the side seams actually sit to the front, this has resulted in an angled shape to the armhole, which I rather like.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH6PQReAv1dxRodsovLLxlzv8oL0Gfx_yx-Z9abTDjIYHLZ9x0dIoOz66oBBX9X35OkmolxwxyrteB-MeOI5OL500lyn0Xqe4FPgkRrR6FQB8g8YEekfQO_HF3s6Bbz4bZTqEcrXO8RWnv/s1600/IMG_9325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH6PQReAv1dxRodsovLLxlzv8oL0Gfx_yx-Z9abTDjIYHLZ9x0dIoOz66oBBX9X35OkmolxwxyrteB-MeOI5OL500lyn0Xqe4FPgkRrR6FQB8g8YEekfQO_HF3s6Bbz4bZTqEcrXO8RWnv/s1600/IMG_9325.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can sort of see the angled armscye here</td></tr>
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I think I added length, just in case, which I cut off again, but I left the bottom unhemmed - partly laziness, partly time, partly because I doubted I'd keep this as a maxi, so what was the point? So far it's still a maxi dress!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwZJHQSqY7vgKnOX73daSSfw1H87Qb50kXxfaPbHdbqaDMEuFyMVrrxs4jTENN2QtWDhYs6lucnDJ7KUBkWrhUjqQZKX5gZIbnGH6CuuA9uPELuRX7EiSa20msWl_Ml7iJzS-vRfRgk0s/s1600/IMG_9320.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwZJHQSqY7vgKnOX73daSSfw1H87Qb50kXxfaPbHdbqaDMEuFyMVrrxs4jTENN2QtWDhYs6lucnDJ7KUBkWrhUjqQZKX5gZIbnGH6CuuA9uPELuRX7EiSa20msWl_Ml7iJzS-vRfRgk0s/s1600/IMG_9320.JPG" /></a><br />
The result? Yeah, I kind of love it. I wore it twice on holiday. Not sure how much wear it'll get outside Turkey or a similar hot location, but you never know. I love the kind of Grecian vibe it has. It's nice unbelted but Paul vetoed that, so I wore it belted. It works well, but it is the kind of dress you fiddle with quite a lot. But I like the swishy nature and I really love the shape of the skirt. I think I will have to find another excuse to wear it at home!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjuIOGyb5xW8yZvhBEgOJEBSjg3JBYTHd1QK7VTuFYqb7V6ftKILpSImKZAAMghmX1RfN2vrRUpz1J2DfQFei4FW9leG9X6tCFmKr7FCXYSOmiOJAFVqh4lZQD_e-wb145GDSl1u0mwAd/s1600/IMG_9330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjuIOGyb5xW8yZvhBEgOJEBSjg3JBYTHd1QK7VTuFYqb7V6ftKILpSImKZAAMghmX1RfN2vrRUpz1J2DfQFei4FW9leG9X6tCFmKr7FCXYSOmiOJAFVqh4lZQD_e-wb145GDSl1u0mwAd/s1600/IMG_9330.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grecian Goddess pose, obvs.</td></tr>
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<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-70787568034716369382017-07-14T10:30:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:19:18.905+00:00Handmade Holiday Part 3You can find parts <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/handmade-holiday-part-1.html">1</a> and <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/handmade-holiday-part-2.html">2</a> here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPk77ltSIfqhrgfh2puQHIO1UApIvqB36weC0FzsCc4fGs388c-8TgMer6djBcReStgJM22ZYGPXNUT1emtuxRxPqYIIodWn_4fMLItG6kE5rf3qDN7xzrTvzDeAXIMRCnPCPImaUYgFki/s1600/IMG_9087.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPk77ltSIfqhrgfh2puQHIO1UApIvqB36weC0FzsCc4fGs388c-8TgMer6djBcReStgJM22ZYGPXNUT1emtuxRxPqYIIodWn_4fMLItG6kE5rf3qDN7xzrTvzDeAXIMRCnPCPImaUYgFki/s1600/IMG_9087.JPG" /></a></div>
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While I was procrastinating on my dress, I made a pair of shorts. We have only been abroad once since we had the kids, and I hadn't done a beach style holiday in about 20 years so I was majorly stressing about what to pack. I only owned one pair of short which I have had for over 10 years so I thought a second pair wouldn't go amiss. There are a few shorts patterns I fancied trying but with the limitations of time, I decided to stick with something I knew would work - the<a href="http://shop.truebias.com/product/emerson-crop-pant-shorts"> Emerson by True Bias</a>. Since I had made the <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/completed-emerson-pants.html">cropped pants</a> last year I knew they would work perfectly. </div>
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I used a Robert Kaufman railroad denim that I've had in the stash for a number of years, so it was good to finally find a use for it. Its a lightweight denim, so not too thick or heavy for hot weather. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsvjnBh4hUGBaSbjNhNylKkhsKtrsKR4CGkAUq8D3_bkALlZRPMx0xZ3n5I5W3J_IU_cGAY_D3XnXT82jQcrjzoe-1iIN9CQSqiNAR56Q0BfLXAYZuOCel7QVnjqkbIeD5vt16_BKft_vv/s1600/IMG_9027.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsvjnBh4hUGBaSbjNhNylKkhsKtrsKR4CGkAUq8D3_bkALlZRPMx0xZ3n5I5W3J_IU_cGAY_D3XnXT82jQcrjzoe-1iIN9CQSqiNAR56Q0BfLXAYZuOCel7QVnjqkbIeD5vt16_BKft_vv/s1600/IMG_9027.JPG" /></a></div>
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The shorts came together with no issues whatsoever. It's a great pattern and a quick sew. At this point my overlocker was still working so the insides are overlocked in red, and I bound the inside waistband with Liberty bias binding. Because I can.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnWstEU3pYIYy_4DuuLb_2bm9G0YowmvlV8-9ucRMamXDJyGTOHvFyPwbyZKlRDYflTd05xDuLHg3982_kISa0dPuVKWZiuHDAWNw1ECxAAU3OnRP2QPiG-lgfg38IdszK1w9JwIgXc2U/s1600/IMG_9056.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnWstEU3pYIYy_4DuuLb_2bm9G0YowmvlV8-9ucRMamXDJyGTOHvFyPwbyZKlRDYflTd05xDuLHg3982_kISa0dPuVKWZiuHDAWNw1ECxAAU3OnRP2QPiG-lgfg38IdszK1w9JwIgXc2U/s1600/IMG_9056.JPG" /></a></div>
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My only regrets with these shorts are that I used cheap elastic which isn't very stretchy, which makes them a bit difficult to get over my hips (especially on top of a wet swimsuit!) and which also makes the waistband a bit tighter than my others. In general they are slightly less comfortable than my cropped pants. I think I need to fiddle with the crotch curve a bit if I make another pair - I suspect the chambray of the cropped pants relaxes more than the denim and so is a bit more forgiving. They aren't in the pattern, but I also could have done with patch pockets on the back on these. However, they are still a great little workhorse of a pair of shorts. I wore them numerous times on holiday. They are comfy (just not as comfy as the others), and they go with pretty much everything. The length as drafted is perfect for me - not too long, not too short. I can imagine they will last me the next 10 years!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmcJYDbhdbaRM0SthJPmU0VzYLRZWOlf2rgQMsRBXtO5HYupaiOz8Ky8ypkICVjx51rAy5Q0hCpGVw6zoJu8TV0-zy8ZlFvbeA5h1dn2f9Hmpageo_uuklTCJstX7CrzrP7CYsC0qHt5l/s1600/IMG_9359.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmcJYDbhdbaRM0SthJPmU0VzYLRZWOlf2rgQMsRBXtO5HYupaiOz8Ky8ypkICVjx51rAy5Q0hCpGVw6zoJu8TV0-zy8ZlFvbeA5h1dn2f9Hmpageo_uuklTCJstX7CrzrP7CYsC0qHt5l/s1600/IMG_9359.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6f9s3Qt4O8ZvHUMaz8tTDUwujTE9ii_n2cR-5tOOrKFhz3tePN481002fZho0nlbJD5PHGSRcytCVaqZdxBl4UR43-MINr5s0mtVdoXj-fxycgm6KJCE8_M6RE24qFwJx9X7cOg2FNvT/s1600/IMG_9360.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6f9s3Qt4O8ZvHUMaz8tTDUwujTE9ii_n2cR-5tOOrKFhz3tePN481002fZho0nlbJD5PHGSRcytCVaqZdxBl4UR43-MINr5s0mtVdoXj-fxycgm6KJCE8_M6RE24qFwJx9X7cOg2FNvT/s1600/IMG_9360.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFao-x5QOv5wTU6nwtsnEa_Cv4FjgqDy7s059MqhaJEw8zeo3hGEr6lrGVku4lPZ3p0aVfTAiUbWHwNtBJGQJeez9xxhD-37dnte2ZDHsfSiplT8SGQPvZo8d2V8gl0xHvpPEUEWTntoZ/s1600/IMG_9361.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFao-x5QOv5wTU6nwtsnEa_Cv4FjgqDy7s059MqhaJEw8zeo3hGEr6lrGVku4lPZ3p0aVfTAiUbWHwNtBJGQJeez9xxhD-37dnte2ZDHsfSiplT8SGQPvZo8d2V8gl0xHvpPEUEWTntoZ/s1600/IMG_9361.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUQsIZjazGUyCKW4wtrQtEfI5SdIjO7zUo45DbMW0nMpLEWZ4pJO-nXrqt0deYwASV-xq4MJvnfknXOKnaGcPxy0ldJ8rKXuX8c2bNOUHcMBsp5a8jLBfbIXlnRNXvthyqIR2mGhpdr-w/s1600/IMG_9362.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUQsIZjazGUyCKW4wtrQtEfI5SdIjO7zUo45DbMW0nMpLEWZ4pJO-nXrqt0deYwASV-xq4MJvnfknXOKnaGcPxy0ldJ8rKXuX8c2bNOUHcMBsp5a8jLBfbIXlnRNXvthyqIR2mGhpdr-w/s1600/IMG_9362.JPG" /></a></div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-20066525181832985402017-07-12T17:00:00.000+01:002019-02-05T14:19:28.640+00:00Handmade Holiday Part 2My dress for my brother's wedding! :) (I posted part 1 <a href="http://grosgraingreen.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/handmade-holiday-part-1.html">here</a>).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MXPStwP91m_hMwPFOzVRGmmt3-yDvb6VvTIfQ9AKi3uxZFTW9Ycp7E0C8ZmpJvUPIYuNR_caD8Bh_nFCeTz-JAnW1NxwgMo9W4AoIfaUZSmJxrvqCfDtnTPjY_8_LTg_LG8TSQ9Sfx8H/s1600/IMG_9246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MXPStwP91m_hMwPFOzVRGmmt3-yDvb6VvTIfQ9AKi3uxZFTW9Ycp7E0C8ZmpJvUPIYuNR_caD8Bh_nFCeTz-JAnW1NxwgMo9W4AoIfaUZSmJxrvqCfDtnTPjY_8_LTg_LG8TSQ9Sfx8H/s1600/IMG_9246.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with my mum and my sister</td></tr>
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From the start I wasn't overly committed to making my dress, but if I'm honest, I couldn't be bothered shopping. I kind of hate shopping these days. Anyway, I decided that if I did see a RTW dress I loved, that I would buy it, but in the meantime I'd have a look around for patterns and fabric. I wasn't hung up on a particular style of dress, but it needed to be easy to fit and to sew and comfortable to wear in the anticipated heat of Istanbul. I had seen the <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/products/sway-dress">Sway dress by Papercut Patterns</a> before, but it had never really stood out for me, but for some reason, this time it appealed. It fit the bill on all counts. If you don't know it, it's essentially a tent dress with a self made belt. No darts, no waistline. Very little fitting required.<br />
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<a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0170/3286/files/SwayLD_large.png?4433207190649848365" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="182" data-original-width="410" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0170/3286/files/SwayLD_large.png?4433207190649848365" /></a></div>
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I made a toile anyway, in poly crepe because I'd read that the armscye was low - it was - and I wanted to check the length. In the end I reduced the size of the armscye by a couple of cm, I think, and I also added to the length by about 10cm just for personal preference. I had to sew the toile at my parent's house because that was the week they ripped out the kitchen and we had a makeshift set up in our living room, with basically no room to swing an unpicker.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9PBw_y24PkXfI_vV6aHhY1azhgt2_X8T65YfnRavKwSGRynqQFh3TLndQmtizk6mwSi9IAU30Fud7nsWYoycyCBo_2uvxpwy06Dkf7U22DAe34C1sAoyD2K7NOv4MS8DSaTLMxkQtA_9e/s1600/IMG_8991.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9PBw_y24PkXfI_vV6aHhY1azhgt2_X8T65YfnRavKwSGRynqQFh3TLndQmtizk6mwSi9IAU30Fud7nsWYoycyCBo_2uvxpwy06Dkf7U22DAe34C1sAoyD2K7NOv4MS8DSaTLMxkQtA_9e/s1600/IMG_8991.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwFKx1NDIAftmSY5Pg5avm3172fGPN2sGiFE5WauN8e1dK_g36DE_fFQqZBhmC215DATDk7FE4Kw6RfEJLiLmrNQI7nNj-uK3XTJcew-AxGuW65Ak9u_2eliT3SCd6nrI0orRzSnVIscV5/s1600/IMG_8988.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwFKx1NDIAftmSY5Pg5avm3172fGPN2sGiFE5WauN8e1dK_g36DE_fFQqZBhmC215DATDk7FE4Kw6RfEJLiLmrNQI7nNj-uK3XTJcew-AxGuW65Ak9u_2eliT3SCd6nrI0orRzSnVIscV5/s1600/IMG_8988.JPG" /></a><br />
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I may go back and finish this toile properly as I really love the colour.<br />
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For fabric, I initially fancied silk, but couldn't find anything I really loved. I then went to the Knitting and Stitching show in Edinburgh and found the perfect <a href="https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/shop/fabric/atelier-brunette-viscose-crepe-amarante-fabric">Atelier Brunette viscose crepe</a> in a gorgeous burgundy colour on the Guthrie & Ghani stand. It's a lovely fabric in a gorgeous weight and it has a slight sheen to it, making it look very rich. It frayed pretty badly, but otherwise was nice to sew. I think the crepe made it much less prone to slipping than other viscoses/rayons I have used in the past. I would definitely recommend this fabric and would love to buy more. It comes in a range of colours.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAK6w0RvIW31D6_soD2UuGike74EdqpIcrjyuhSkQa8ognCKnTnW20P_k5M-Wl5uHTqc-zD6V9RIdLIPf4G_50l3ojba43cx9O0ZaRF-_UKPc4fwM8ynDI8NzDeDzzWy3mJ2TuAyI93QiY/s1600/IMG_9247.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAK6w0RvIW31D6_soD2UuGike74EdqpIcrjyuhSkQa8ognCKnTnW20P_k5M-Wl5uHTqc-zD6V9RIdLIPf4G_50l3ojba43cx9O0ZaRF-_UKPc4fwM8ynDI8NzDeDzzWy3mJ2TuAyI93QiY/s1600/IMG_9247.JPG" /></a><br />
I then procrastinated a lot. I have no idea why. I think I was nervous of cutting out the viscose for some reason, so when I forced myself down to it, it was only a couple of weeks before the wedding. Luckily it comes together quickly and is a very easy sew. I had a minor setback in that my overlocker broke halfway through making this, and I ended up having to finish the raw edges with my overlock stitch on my sewing machine. It works fairly well, but it's SLOW and obviously it doesn't trim the edges, so the insides of this are not as pretty as I would have liked.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0ELANO2mme6OUMgWiOmOeXdVuG8nLWdjg2KZ2-jfBh0yuEz93wzwozQLABQnlcYlCY-SN9fEUmEM_tUZ6DeIDw5xsBEt0mdhCWa9FZbyJ5teXkW028g5f6fh9viIRd9yIQimevI0Dm1j/s1600/P7020272.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0ELANO2mme6OUMgWiOmOeXdVuG8nLWdjg2KZ2-jfBh0yuEz93wzwozQLABQnlcYlCY-SN9fEUmEM_tUZ6DeIDw5xsBEt0mdhCWa9FZbyJ5teXkW028g5f6fh9viIRd9yIQimevI0Dm1j/s1600/P7020272.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrJdVQFGIEi3DYDDrGI4yWg3Jfq3DoD4vutVKzBa-H-BvYFDYzf_OlfRXXbtlIlmEmyOEeEP6Ecef6L7yOGFBBmI5ePYTWX6BX5G5Rwyo6LJ8nBGuwu9nPR2UlzMF18S9UkQVRI3rbkapU/s1600/IMG_9235.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrJdVQFGIEi3DYDDrGI4yWg3Jfq3DoD4vutVKzBa-H-BvYFDYzf_OlfRXXbtlIlmEmyOEeEP6Ecef6L7yOGFBBmI5ePYTWX6BX5G5Rwyo6LJ8nBGuwu9nPR2UlzMF18S9UkQVRI3rbkapU/s1600/IMG_9235.JPG" /></a><br />
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The dress was made as per the instructions, other than I messed up the pockets and sewed them with raw edges showing on the outside, so I unpicked them and did without. They were also too low anyway, probably something to do with where I decided to lengthen the dress. I didn't make the belt loops, preferring to add chain stitch loops for a more subtle look. This pattern is reversible, but it's designed that the V neck is at the front. I far preferred the low V to the back, and thought the curved neck at the front was very flattering.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDlCH6tQZy3_K4CgG8Bg86CdReuIuC8vKKYEH83FQzm_56fZGXKtSkZ5fvfm0QuVpruIp2RYgf3fjkq28rIjmVT64SU2q68Mu2vmX4HjW29qBR-dcEJH2yHE5FGpFPsXcGf-M-gsLZJLB/s1600/IMG_9138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDlCH6tQZy3_K4CgG8Bg86CdReuIuC8vKKYEH83FQzm_56fZGXKtSkZ5fvfm0QuVpruIp2RYgf3fjkq28rIjmVT64SU2q68Mu2vmX4HjW29qBR-dcEJH2yHE5FGpFPsXcGf-M-gsLZJLB/s1600/IMG_9138.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thread chain belt loop. Also this gives a good indication of the sheen on the fabric.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcqHp27-CBQfW3KtuhPG3zORfc_KjWlzjQYMPlazXXNm9Bg5k8uJ7WgokWv_NEmm13Aiek6bymFuXt4eqA2mkAJgd_vzCpGAeflCs8zh1eS6tfGQ3WMiDBpsko6hCc2bCzdbf_LunYm8Fo/s1600/P7020373.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcqHp27-CBQfW3KtuhPG3zORfc_KjWlzjQYMPlazXXNm9Bg5k8uJ7WgokWv_NEmm13Aiek6bymFuXt4eqA2mkAJgd_vzCpGAeflCs8zh1eS6tfGQ3WMiDBpsko6hCc2bCzdbf_LunYm8Fo/s1600/P7020373.JPG" /></a><br />
I love the resultant dress. It's not the dressiest dress for a wedding - Feyza's family and friends were all far more glamourously dressed - but it was comfortable, and I jazzed it up with jewellery and heels. The wedding took place at 6pm, but it was still absolutely boiling at that point. The whole thing was outside, on the Asian side of Istanbul, right on the Bosphorus. It was absolutely stunning, but I was glad of a loose fitting, breathable dress (and that I'd thought to take extra deodorant with me), as it was almost unbearable for us fair skinned Scots. The heat did lessen though, as the sun went down and it became the most perfect balmy evening. It was such a fantastic wedding.<br />
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Congrats to my baby brother Ian and his beautiful wife Feyza.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi75eWbm9EGNXaOGh6k9GptCpz2pOAhabB165TxGa0c6AIAWzOH4GMfN35Bm3XsdLF35jhHBM4Njh-rF_7cWcilND-cjf7dFOVb08qJay9MQzPRsfWuDlEahZF65QxBFHXG5OC64WsG7okO/s1600/IMG_9370.PNG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi75eWbm9EGNXaOGh6k9GptCpz2pOAhabB165TxGa0c6AIAWzOH4GMfN35Bm3XsdLF35jhHBM4Njh-rF_7cWcilND-cjf7dFOVb08qJay9MQzPRsfWuDlEahZF65QxBFHXG5OC64WsG7okO/s1600/IMG_9370.PNG" /></a>Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-68601765197899345752017-07-10T21:02:00.001+01:002019-02-05T14:19:39.673+00:00Handmade Holiday Part 1Our lives have been dominated by 2 things over the past few months: our kitchen extension and my brother's wedding in Turkey. The extension is still rumbling on, and I think I will blog about that once it's finished, but the Turkey trip is now just some lovely memories.<br />
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Our trip to Turkey was a 2 parter. 4 days with family in Istanbul for the wedding, then a further 4 days, just the 4 of us in a resort in Oludeniz on the West coast. Two very different experiences, but both fantastic in their own way. </div>
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I did think I would post about my handmade holiday. I took a fair number of self made items with me, but I didn't take photos of my outfits because I was either too busy doing stuff or too busy doing nothing. Of course I made my dress for the wedding, and also my niece's dress who was one of the flower girls. I also made a couple of other garments specifically for the holiday, and I will blog about each in turn, starting today with my niece's dress. I didn't think to take lots of photos, though, so apologies. I also now can't remember many of the details, so this'll be a short post!</div>
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I didn't intend to make my Annie's dress initially, and my sister didn't ask. I kept telling myself to keep my mouth shut - I had enough to be getting on with - but clearly didn't listen to myself. I came across the M<a href="https://shop.made-by-rae.com/products/geranium-dress">ade by Rae Geranium dress</a> on Instagram and it was pretty much what my sister had described as having in mind. I sent her the photo and before I knew it, I had offered to make the dress. </div>
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<a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0286/5680/products/geranium_large.png?v=1440168065" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="415" data-original-width="480" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0286/5680/products/geranium_large.png?v=1440168065" /></a></div>
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It was very straightforward to make. There are quite a few options (there is now an expansion pack with even more options available!), but we went for the plain round neck, the flounce sleeve and the gathered skirt. I suggested we use broderie anglais as it's pretty and quite dressy, but still cool enough for the Turkish heat and not so dressy she won't wear it again. My sister chose a circle broderie anglais from John Lewis. I told her to get cotton lawn or voile to line it but the fabric the woman sold her was more like muslin - very thin and it frayed like mad.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-oEKhraV2thlog-sgAAHCGIGkHUG8N2D9YbjGJAHEHIybS9JtIWySEZ7c4u6aC0LeWdHzb3ciwJp6dc7Z2OuVSCu21esnoaI6NMPb9UMwaTxOYdsNsdMnhi3jRHDd2eQi1EWj4MTotMF/s1600/IMG_9219.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-oEKhraV2thlog-sgAAHCGIGkHUG8N2D9YbjGJAHEHIybS9JtIWySEZ7c4u6aC0LeWdHzb3ciwJp6dc7Z2OuVSCu21esnoaI6NMPb9UMwaTxOYdsNsdMnhi3jRHDd2eQi1EWj4MTotMF/s1600/IMG_9219.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWUhSJez04h66tbcp8nuaErw4O_LMXx6FIwggvk8jjrW8JCVj4fvFXd8QZaocIVT-LdsKq-BXJKlbSdnFRWIaOpYqtDmEwxekI7OcQNmaFpSAvbW684zZl8QCVWWr885skCdauVCUU-wx/s1600/P7020296.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWUhSJez04h66tbcp8nuaErw4O_LMXx6FIwggvk8jjrW8JCVj4fvFXd8QZaocIVT-LdsKq-BXJKlbSdnFRWIaOpYqtDmEwxekI7OcQNmaFpSAvbW684zZl8QCVWWr885skCdauVCUU-wx/s1600/P7020296.JPG" /></a></div>
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I did a quick and simple toile in an old sheet to check for size. The pattern comes in 2 age ranges. Annie was between the different size ranges, but it made sense to buy the larger range, so we could use it again in the future. It was a little big for her, so I just took some width out at the sides. I can't remember how much.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYeaHMsdIDySo6gJvi3Grh3rKFiHcGHFPRprUK_cq1I4iend1LpIn2qclFVUbKsW0zd6MXZmtFpbC8o6yZJz0PJFSmpGy9TXMqzCh_toRQ4ahHkNAkxRIP6YvKGY1qhnVn3M7Y0Y9iu5FH/s1600/IMG_9224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYeaHMsdIDySo6gJvi3Grh3rKFiHcGHFPRprUK_cq1I4iend1LpIn2qclFVUbKsW0zd6MXZmtFpbC8o6yZJz0PJFSmpGy9TXMqzCh_toRQ4ahHkNAkxRIP6YvKGY1qhnVn3M7Y0Y9iu5FH/s1600/IMG_9224.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strike a pose</td></tr>
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Due to the transparency, I decided to use 2 layers of lining fabric to line the bodice. As I went along, it occurred to me that I could underline and line the bodice, which meant no visible seam allowances in the "holes" in the broderie. This actually worked really well. The bodice is very satifying to make, with all raw edges enclosed. The broderie anglais didn't fray, so I left the edges of the flutter sleeve unfinished. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTmJGj5Pw-NWgFMkDBzsXYZIkhP1naahKy2jmOOK3sPtCMTImUDdr7Z9X4843A6LG0t0W3-RXYUGFbn6_isaScpZUNzLhF4mDR_b8S_-eiYwie25YstNYTBOreAnQSwXlbwN6xjzmicP0/s1600/IMG_8799.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTmJGj5Pw-NWgFMkDBzsXYZIkhP1naahKy2jmOOK3sPtCMTImUDdr7Z9X4843A6LG0t0W3-RXYUGFbn6_isaScpZUNzLhF4mDR_b8S_-eiYwie25YstNYTBOreAnQSwXlbwN6xjzmicP0/s1600/IMG_8799.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyaNGrVSD9Z0bOxst-5yP0F0j3pfEvY6piyfjqeHFxeuBe-4GGdBMEERGASmqnEhKHSLoJvsM4-l6S79wtaY3_X8H5gPOWrX0RuXuYpVOg-083oO4Y_MUTi5mIhoPVH8XzzbjfUdwRVHe/s1600/IMG_8801.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyaNGrVSD9Z0bOxst-5yP0F0j3pfEvY6piyfjqeHFxeuBe-4GGdBMEERGASmqnEhKHSLoJvsM4-l6S79wtaY3_X8H5gPOWrX0RuXuYpVOg-083oO4Y_MUTi5mIhoPVH8XzzbjfUdwRVHe/s1600/IMG_8801.JPG" /></a><br />
I did plan to double line the skirt, but I felt there might be too much bulk with the gathers, so just underlined it instead. The length was ideal as was, so I overlocked the hem and finished it with some lace trim from Hobbycraft. Finally, I handstitched on some peach coloured ribbon at the empire line (waist) to tie in with my sister in law's flowers. The buttons are flower shaped, again from John Lewis.<br />
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And that's it. With a flower crown, her outfit was complete! She looked absolutely gorgeous and did a fabulous job as a flower girl, along with her partner Betul (I have definitely spelt that wrong), my sister in law's cousin.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7lEc7YNe09WsWlsSq48T7vIXZFyekC3YAege11ZdVONbo3AUE-kIS6OUnq0k4VZCJKPefnTSAEeo6ElS4X5mUpcEXwGqVUe3xN0W1Yc1sfnFbsiDIu7nTyeoLD1d6glmxWxTLUL5Xfiz/s1600/IMG_9222.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7lEc7YNe09WsWlsSq48T7vIXZFyekC3YAege11ZdVONbo3AUE-kIS6OUnq0k4VZCJKPefnTSAEeo6ElS4X5mUpcEXwGqVUe3xN0W1Yc1sfnFbsiDIu7nTyeoLD1d6glmxWxTLUL5Xfiz/s1600/IMG_9222.JPG" /></a></div>
Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-1852663384470238612017-06-02T14:55:00.000+01:002017-06-02T14:55:03.575+01:00Me Made May 17: Last bitsHello, hello. Just thought I'd check back in to talk about the last bits of Me Made May this year. As I type, our kitchen is being installed. It sounds like the builders are about to come through the wall, but they are loudly and badly singing along to Absolute 80's - you should have heard their rendition of Tiffany's I Think We're Alone Now, even the kids were killing themselves laughing - so I'm assuming it's going OK.<br />
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So, where did we get to. Oh yes, on to day 24.<br />
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Day 24: Hacked Kelly skirt (Megan Nielsen) in chambray, plus black Lark tee<br />
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Day 25: Hacked Grainline Archer shirt dress in viscose<br />
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Day 26: Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank in viscose with chambray True Bias Emerson pants.<br />
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Day 27: Double gauze Emmeline Tee<br />
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Day 28: Lark tee with "refashioned" (i.e. too long hem chopped off) jeans.<br />
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Day 29: Stockholm blouse<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB0TKeWyeio1Iva9PhCr6L7ECh_bO8Bfmm9evrWRyMxDZxBRV7aWEMXVRNBGr8DBNlG7-mYpZdp8yKMBxq7xZ8e0kJcrvbO28gKNRMzhgojBNiNeIMl1qshkU-Q4JZ1doLQwIau4MyTCMm/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB0TKeWyeio1Iva9PhCr6L7ECh_bO8Bfmm9evrWRyMxDZxBRV7aWEMXVRNBGr8DBNlG7-mYpZdp8yKMBxq7xZ8e0kJcrvbO28gKNRMzhgojBNiNeIMl1qshkU-Q4JZ1doLQwIau4MyTCMm/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+3.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 30: Scout tee in Atelier Brunette cotton, with Linden sweatshirt. Double Grainline.<br />
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Day 31: Eucalypt tank in viscose, with Named Alexandria pants in polyester.<br />
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And that's a wrap.<br />
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Thoughts: lots and lots of repeats, which got a bit boring, but on the whole I was happy with the month. I know that I wear what I sew, but it's always nice to get confirmation. I don't aim to sew everything, so I'm always cautious to identify holes in my me-made wardrobe, for the sake of one month a year, when those holes are happily filled with RTW the other 11 months, but it would be nice to have more handmade outfits. So, more bottoms, especially trousers and jeans. I think I also need a few more short sleeved tees, handmade or bought, as I don't seem to have many of those at all. What did I wear last summer?<br />
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In terms of MMM inspiration, I am left wondering why I have never made any Inari tees, when I've made the dress twice. I am also a bit obsessed with the Ogden cami, which I previously had zero inclination towards. The power of instagram!<br />
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Anyway, with the kitchen nearly done, I have my next few projects lined up. I have just muslined a dress for a wedding at the start of July, and I also am hoping to have time to make a pair of Emerson shorts, and possibly an Ogden or 2 before we go (the wedding and our holiday are in Turkey)... Unlikely, but we will see.<br />
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Did you take part in Me Made May this year? How did you find it?<br />
<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-71937835187891966402017-05-23T21:24:00.000+01:002017-05-23T21:24:19.164+01:00Me Made May Pt 2It feels a bit trite posting about clothes, given what happened in Manchester last night, but if life doesn't go on, they win. We have to carry on. I'm not sure what else to say on the matter really, other than my heart goes out to everyone in Manchester, directly impacted or not.<br />
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And so onto the trite clothes. *Weak smile*.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHyWsZLAouUb7MU9tQ64_FQvJM0KJL2GVrgCDIYmNp57-ryJxL9keZ5zDaXIlXa_njBiwbaZuXM10INZxoeOqbH81RCIs9GfFeyoQQW6YIceX0pwKwkCxXDJZYXZsJRDrr3ke81CrnQHcY/s1600/PicMonkey+Image.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHyWsZLAouUb7MU9tQ64_FQvJM0KJL2GVrgCDIYmNp57-ryJxL9keZ5zDaXIlXa_njBiwbaZuXM10INZxoeOqbH81RCIs9GfFeyoQQW6YIceX0pwKwkCxXDJZYXZsJRDrr3ke81CrnQHcY/s1600/PicMonkey+Image.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 10: Atelier Scammit Stockholm blouse again with chambray True Bias Emerson pants.<br />
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Day 11: Katy & Laney Geometry top in Cotton + Steel rayon<br />
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Day 12: Grainline Lark tee, hacked to have a stepped hem. Also Small Boy wore his Oliver & S shorts in Made by Rae baby cord, plus his Book Day shark hoodie (refashioned from a RTW hoodie).<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQiDpFUiS40b3q4adT9RvvaycQUPLje8cEHDlmhDEOTdJ5cA78MlM4t6C53c1r9yYYD9SZXPU5YakHrLpWCCK5CaYzoIyeNtU7PejYJixJIJjzd8lwtxehpE7rl1E_sra7N3ina_TYEKP/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQiDpFUiS40b3q4adT9RvvaycQUPLje8cEHDlmhDEOTdJ5cA78MlM4t6C53c1r9yYYD9SZXPU5YakHrLpWCCK5CaYzoIyeNtU7PejYJixJIJjzd8lwtxehpE7rl1E_sra7N3ina_TYEKP/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+2.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 13: Named Sloane sweatshirt in Atelier Brunette sweatshirting fabric.<br />
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Day 14: Megan Nielsen Eucalypt tank in C+S rayon<br />
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Day 15: Tessutti Brigitte tee<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6DmI8hpdwb1gRhMx7fUAFlzWjOzaM-4PC5bt0zCIETgXjRUHPXCp5phapCesORb1ZTZL5ZFLX2MTdmxcymzrfZ81cMoaL7jWMmJr3Ds8tHRNSO4C5Nfq5V-2_Vh7gJVD0s5dHtwnzrAWP/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6DmI8hpdwb1gRhMx7fUAFlzWjOzaM-4PC5bt0zCIETgXjRUHPXCp5phapCesORb1ZTZL5ZFLX2MTdmxcymzrfZ81cMoaL7jWMmJr3Ds8tHRNSO4C5Nfq5V-2_Vh7gJVD0s5dHtwnzrAWP/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+3.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 16: Little Tailoress Emmeline tee in double gauze, plus Grainline Moss mini<br />
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Day 17: Grainline Lark tee<br />
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Day 18: Grainline Scout tee in Atelier Brunette cotton<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlws_Se-E8maMk7sAInN4M2rRk4GH9AdMXthAggo8zvMHVwjBOesQEri1KBpM3pEjU2yWdem1Rjq1qrAy1EA6suPWgu7-oAdRMKa6rvdDP-mdqYeImICBZoHZbhuHUzAeXrzNcwUDvmZU/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlws_Se-E8maMk7sAInN4M2rRk4GH9AdMXthAggo8zvMHVwjBOesQEri1KBpM3pEjU2yWdem1Rjq1qrAy1EA6suPWgu7-oAdRMKa6rvdDP-mdqYeImICBZoHZbhuHUzAeXrzNcwUDvmZU/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+4.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 19: Stockholm blouse again<br />
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Day 20: another Grainline Lark tee, plus in the evening I wore my I Am Patterns Aphrodite dress to a wedding reception<br />
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Day 21: Emerson pants again.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqv1gf_QXQZYcrP3KwTevZOfaS17JCWNedrw_pa9TKUf3ak2_7Bp5Is0EoC8Px-iZlFc3uTOFaBPa0yyq-7v1wokyeOWgfAdo5Zoc8u7nYPW3xwAf2ZVJdkqrVtWl15-nnMh8h4BceRIf/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+5.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqv1gf_QXQZYcrP3KwTevZOfaS17JCWNedrw_pa9TKUf3ak2_7Bp5Is0EoC8Px-iZlFc3uTOFaBPa0yyq-7v1wokyeOWgfAdo5Zoc8u7nYPW3xwAf2ZVJdkqrVtWl15-nnMh8h4BceRIf/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+5.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 22: Schnittchen Tanja dress in ponte<br />
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Day 23: Another Emmeline tee, this time in Liberty Tana crepe<br />
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Thoughts: I wrote on Instagram on Saturday that I feel this has been a rather dull Me Made May for me. I feel like I'm wearing the same things over and over, and there isn't much in the way of excitement, or fashion directionality. But I recognise in myself a need to get comfy and cosy and to be invisible (sartorially) from time to time. Usually when I am stressed, anxious, mega busy or all 3. And I've been all 3 with regularity this month due to everything else that's been going on. There are loads of handmade garments I haven't worn this month, because I haven't felt like it. And that's OK. What I will say though is that I have enjoyed what I have worn, and it's nice to know that I am making the things I want to wear, regardless of situation or mood. That's a win.<br />
<br />Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209080131494479770.post-25100181907201578782017-05-09T21:21:00.004+01:002017-05-09T21:21:58.868+01:00Me Made MayHola!<br />
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Gosh. I've forgotten how to go about writing the opening for a blog post!! Well, we have a fair amount of stuff going on at the moment. We are extending and replacing our kitchen, and are 8 weeks into a 10 week build. We have kitchen stuff piled up all over the house and every surface is covered in dust. Last week we had no hot water, no central heating and no washing machine for 5 days. It's exhausting and I am getting really fed up now, but the builders will finish in the next couple of weeks. I have no idea when the new kitchen will be installed, but at present it might not be until the end of June. Sad face. Oh! And Baby Boy has chicken pox, and he turned 3. And he left the interior light on in my car, meaning I had to get a new car battery...<br />
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So, anyway: Me Made May! Yes I am doing it. I never wrote my pledge at the start of the month, but I am joining in. Given all of the above, I am keeping it simple: I am wearing a me made item every day, and proving it with a selfie. That's it, nothing more. You'll have noticed I'm also not doing my usual weekly round ups on here. Again time and inclination, however I thought I'd try to do a couple of roundups through the month, so here is the first.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MFFjvMNsqwL5dVZDkEin9ktwTHrdJyp6NA-yKEFZegBjKnQx-TtnXDtWaEES0gDGZ9U0fSLroBvy3R42GEKXU9nkpdrD9FrhJZ6Dph1p-4hYfeNyZPT1c5UhCbXMk5oXlfTRE2J8YdBT/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+6.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MFFjvMNsqwL5dVZDkEin9ktwTHrdJyp6NA-yKEFZegBjKnQx-TtnXDtWaEES0gDGZ9U0fSLroBvy3R42GEKXU9nkpdrD9FrhJZ6Dph1p-4hYfeNyZPT1c5UhCbXMk5oXlfTRE2J8YdBT/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+6.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 1<br />
Colette Laurel Blouse in Liberty Tana Lawn, plus Grainline Moss Mini skirt in cotton from Ikea.<br />
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Day 2<br />
Atelier Scammit Stockholm Blouse in cotton gingham<br />
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Day 3<br />
Named Inari Dress in denim<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkt54KSmYnTFzexnCx3iO45j6Ba33EPWz43SvrS1kbdzmhfyjt1HaVreEp2L142CfcnzUtFfX6bWMM8pmwT9Qz1mV7RyI57gDKR2fXBVT3ZlDEzylLD1Wt1ySAKGM7FCra6YjQ21Bieo_d/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkt54KSmYnTFzexnCx3iO45j6Ba33EPWz43SvrS1kbdzmhfyjt1HaVreEp2L142CfcnzUtFfX6bWMM8pmwT9Qz1mV7RyI57gDKR2fXBVT3ZlDEzylLD1Wt1ySAKGM7FCra6YjQ21Bieo_d/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+4.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 4<br />
Grainline Linden sweat in self-quilted sweatshirting, over a stepped hem long sleeve stripy Grainline Lark tee, which you can't see.<br />
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Day 5<br />
Grainline Linden sweat, stencilled with an ampersand, over a plain black short sleeve Grainline Lark tee.<br />
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Day 6<br />
Little Tailoress Emmeline Tee in double gauze, plus another me made; Baby Boy, who celebrated his third birthday today.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6avY-K_b0OTQWun71JuxTkto6Fi7xwTbDwo99D-TjQgYNskqndbXkyPx2p5womxcV3R8__VHIgQkT3-ND39yxMqAL7GFtCL7-yAfZbax1KqLWKZr6M1tvW-XnF6kv_x6hzBcMO4-i7EtA/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+5.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6avY-K_b0OTQWun71JuxTkto6Fi7xwTbDwo99D-TjQgYNskqndbXkyPx2p5womxcV3R8__VHIgQkT3-ND39yxMqAL7GFtCL7-yAfZbax1KqLWKZr6M1tvW-XnF6kv_x6hzBcMO4-i7EtA/s1600/PicMonkey+Image+5.jpg" /></a><br />
Day 7<br />
Grainline Scout tee in viscose with hacked pleat front.<br />
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Day 8<br />
Grainline Scout tee in cotton voile, with hacked ruffle bum<br />
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Day 9<br />
Named Inari dress in Cotton + Steel rayon<br />
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It seems I have some favourite patterns, and favourite pattern designers! These are all worn with regularity normally. So far, so good this month!Helenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.com5