Monday 1 July 2013

Striped linen kimono sleeve blouse

I made this blouse during and for Me Made May 13, but realised I have never got round to formally introducing it. No snazzy, alliterated name this time I'm afraid.


Yep, that dorky eyes closed photo again!
To be honest, there's not a whole lot to say about this. I bought the fabric, a blue and white pinstriped linen from Mandors, on a bit of a whim. I'm not a huge linen fan because generally I struggle enough to look polished and neat, without crushed linen adding to the mix. What sold this was the way it was displayed. It was draped, artfully around a mannequin, in a kimono tee shape, with a navy linen "skirt" with red and blue buttons. It was a really cool nautical look and I kind of fell in love with it, thinking it would be a good holiday top and a nice, easy, quick MMM project. I was right about both but only actually got round to making this about half way through, so it only featured in MMM once. I did wear it on my seaside holiday though. It's a good summer blouse.

If you recognise the shape, that's because I based it completely on my graphic print kimono blouse. Same pattern, same extending of shoulder line. I widened the neck slightly to create more of a boat neck shape, which worked, although I think it might have looked better if it had been even wider. This widening of the neck meant it slips over my head, so I just sewed the back seam up. No closures. I told you this was quick and simple.



This version is slightly smaller than my earlier versions of this pattern. The reason for this is that I recently, within the last few months, realised that for years (ever) I hadn't been using 5/8 inch seam allowances! I was using the 5/8 inch mark on my needle plate, but when (for some reason) I decided to measure this, I realised that this is not 5/8 inch from the central needle position. It's actually from the far left needle position. Is that normal? It feels like that is wrong. My machine has 2 straight stitch options. Number 1, which defaults to far left, but is adjustable towards the right, and Number 2, which is centrally positioned and is not adjustable. When I had my lesson when I bought the machine, the woman said to use stitch number 2 as my default stitch (and it's more comfortable and logical sewing with the needle in the middle). Surely it would make more sense to have the markings on the needle plate from that central position? Isn't that how everyone sews? Or is that just me? Either way, no surprises as to why most things I've made have been a bit too big in the past!

I used French seams inside and faced the neckline with bias binding. The sleeves and hem were just turned under. In order to give the top a little bit more interest, I used a contrast bias binding for the neck facing. This is made from some vintage fabric I had in my stash, which I love, but which I bought many years ago before I got into sewing properly, attempted to make a dress from and absolutely wasted the material by getting it all spectacularly wrong! Still, it's made pretty bias binding. I have a few Boden tops which have contrast colour binding on the inside of the neck and it's a detail I like. It's a secret that only I (and now you) know is there.


I was particularly proud of my careful stop stitching on this, I used a dark blue thread on the top of the machine and a white thread in the bottom, so that the thread matched the fabric on each side! I wasn't sure if this would work, or whether one of the threads would pull through slightly, but it worked perfectly. You can just see the white stitching on the far right of this photo.

I like this blouse, and it's proven to be a good basic piece of "cake". But, it's a bit plain and unexciting. I don't know. I like it,  but then always feel the need to jazz it up with a bright cardigan or something similar. Even P commented that it was a bit plain. I am thinking about adding something to make it a little bit more exciting. One idea I had was to embroider something on it - maybe an anchor? I had thought in red, but then maybe I should stick to the colours in the bias binding. The purple is nice. Also, I actually don't know how to embroider.

Another idea I had was to somehow use more of the vintage fabric on the outside of the top. Maybe a strip on the shoulders, covering the current shoulder seam? I then lose the impact of the surprise bias binding, but then does that matter?

Or should I just leave it as is, a useful layer that goes with most things, and continue to wear it with bright accessories/other clothes instead? Thoughts?
SHARE:

10 comments

  1. I just measured my needle to the 5/8 marking and it does match - but I never would have thought to check before. I think some cake is good to have in your wardrobe. I don't have enough plain tops myself so I would vote to leave it as is and make something new. Did you see Tilly's short sleeved version of the Mathilde? I would love to try that.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Shar! You are probably right re plain tops.

      I did see Tilly's short sleeve Mathilde. I had wondered about making one before, but her version has sold that idea to me!

      Delete
  2. I'm going to go and check my needle position when i get home, how interesting! I think this top is lovely, perfect for the summer. And amazing idea using different threads, I'm not sure why that hasn't occurred to me before. I will definitely be doing that in the future!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I feel a bit daft never having noticed this before. I mean, I know what 1.5cm (5/8 inch) looks like, so how come I never noticed?!

      TBH I looked at a couple of RTW tops before using the different coloured threads, but was still pleased it worked so well. Contast stitching is nice, but it's also nice not to have it sometimes.

      Delete
  3. This is lovely! I really like the stripey fabric and don't think it's too plain at all, it looks very versatile to me as it looks great with jeans like you're wearing it but would also look really nice with a brightly coloured skirt or trousers.
    I still can't ever remember what the measurements of the markings on my sewing machine are and have to check with a ruler every time before I sew. When I'm using a straight stitch I do always sew with the needle in the middle and would assume this would be the default position.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kathryn. You are right, the top would go with other bottoms. I haven't tried it with a skirt yet.

      Delete
  4. I love this blouse! My favourite things are simple, and this is so cool and summery and fits you really well. Interesting about the needle position...i'm definitely in the centre camp but have to go check now...

    ReplyDelete
  5. lovely! i actually use my seam allowance guide mainly for checking what line i am using on my machine. as my stitch width dial moves the needle from side to side, so if i switch from zigzagging knits (with a narrow width) to wovens with a straight stitch, i have to make sure the needle is in the middle and recheck the width!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Well for what it's worth, I really like your blouse as is! It's a lovely basic, and looks like it would be really versatile. The stripe gives it some visual interest, but still lets you pair it with almost anything without any clashing worries. Plus you can always dress it up with a scarf or necklace...I think you've got a winner with this one!

    ReplyDelete
  7. I think it is a great staple and I second the scarf idea! If you really wanted to do something, maybe a mock placket with some pretty buttons would do the trick?

    ReplyDelete

I love to hear from you!

© Grosgrain Green | All rights reserved.
Blogger Template Created by pipdig